Pattern puzzle: pivot sleeve

Last June, I wrote an entry about the clothing worn by George Mallory on his fated attempt to reach the summit of Mount Everest. From studies done in the UK, it was found that his apparel was 20%-40% lighter in weight than modern day gear but was warmer and more comfortable. Of particular interest to researchers was a pivot sleeve built into the Burberry jacket Mallory wore. The pivot sleeve was an ergonomic feature that permitted full range of motion. Unfortunately, researchers can’t find an actual sample of this sleeve (which is one of the reasons I posted about it) so if you know of one, do let us know.

Courtesy of Jason Sprowls, we have an update. He found a draft of the pivot sleeve in The Tailor and Cutter, Ltd (undated but estimated to be between 1952-1958). Below is a sketch of the finished sleeve which you can download (pdf).

I haven’t put the thing together yet but there’s something interesting going on with the back side of that under sleeve; the gusset is obviously peaked. It’ll be interesting to see how this sews up. You all try it too. Play, have fun.

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11 comments

  1. laurra says:

    Thanks JC for sharing!So kool

    I see today the Modern, Outfitter and Clothier on Ebay for $300.00 I swear Kathleen has driven up the price of used books. I kinda wish kathleen had a swap market for our used books.We all have books that some one could use.
    laurra

  2. J C Sprowls says:

    Yeah, I saw that too, Laurra.

    Maybe it’s time to nudge good ol’ RL Shep and ask if they have intentions of republishing this particular title.

  3. J C Sprowls says:

    I don’t mean to brag (okay, I do, a little…). But, my first copy of The Modern Tailor, Outfitter & Clothier was obtained in a box of books at an estate sale for about $5. It has been my primary source for self-directed study since about 8th grade.

    I recently won a bid (on eBay) for a pristine copy of this same set. It cost a little more than this buyer is selling for. So, if this is something that interests you, I suggest you snag it as soon as possible.

    The information on the pivot sleeve comes from a book entitled “Designing and Cutting Modern Leisure and Cotton Garments for Men”, another Tailor & Cutter publication. I don’t recall if I supplied Kathleen with the proper title for citation, so I’ll add it here, to comments.

  4. sandra says:

    The angles on the sleeve had me a little confused until I saw the shape of the jacket armhole. This is working as a gusset – the usual scoop under the arm has been reflected upwards, so instead of a negative space it’s a positive area. The excess fabric would sit up into the armpit when the arm is down. Freedom of movement for the arms is all about maximising the length of fabric from wrist to waist via the armpit.

  5. Jeffrey says:

    Hello All,

    The pivot sleeve diagram is identical to A.G. Chaudhry, cutter and tailor books for the Golf Jacket. The draft is missing steps 18 through 22 to complete the pivot sleeve. Be prepared to have to complete the sleeve draft yourself.

    I completed this draft and it has become a favorite light jacket with pivot sleeves. The jacket is a bit full through the waist and hips, but I adjusted to my like. Collar draft is missing also.

    Kind regards

    Jeffrey P.

  6. Jeffrey says:

    Hello all,

    I stand corrected! I just received a book from my wish list, that contained the Golf Jacket draft I replied to above.

    I found in the book, that there is a third page to the draft that has the complete sleeve directions(step 18-22) and collar diagrams and directions.

    I thought I would pass this information.

    Kind regards

    Jeffrey P.

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