Judging from the results of the first entry, so maybe this wasn’t so fun but consider the source. I am ever easily amused. People were readily intrigued by the challenge of question #5 which was great but nobody (other than Graham) tried to answer the first four questions. Hmmm. Considering that, I’m opening the floor to professionals. Really folks, none of these questions are difficult. This is material that any one of you should know (except people using blanks).
- The answer to #1 can be found on page 176 of The Entrepreneur’s Guide.
- The answer to #2/3 is on page 179 and in figure 5.80 on page 180. You can also find it here.
- For question #4, see figure 4.9 on page 116. Think puzzle making.
- Regarding number 5, Tom came closest with his description of the origin point at the sphere’s center. There were some wild guesses about the proposed grading methods; the closest described geometry as a possible solution. I’d be more inclined to describe the solution based on topology and calculus. Eric and I examined more ball samples yesterday and discovered -much to our surprise- that ball makers developed their pattern and grade (comparing a softball) traditionally. That is to say, it wasn’t a mathematical solution. Consequently, it wasn’t mathematically perfect, using the solution of wet leather to stretch to compensate for the error. In part three, I’ll illustrate exactly what we found. Unless you do it first of course.
I think it’s fun! It makes me remember the good old days when I was in school and wasn’t an “adult”. How come nobody else has responded?
1. notches! One on the middle of the long side and for the matching piece, the middle of the bulgey part. Does that make sense? I’m a visual person.
2. your pattern would be two pieces (with different notches like I said). Self would be marked with black and contrast 1 would be green.
3. that would require a link to a drawing right? I’ll improvise… It would be three pieces, the two above pieces (cut 1 each) and then the same shaped piece but 1/8″ smaller all around for fusing (marked in red!) cut 2. You’d trace this onto the self and contrast pattern pieces for placement.
4. this requires a drawing link too. what graham said in the other comments. can you butt the pieces horizontal/vertical so the cutter has to only do one cut? or not because of the shapes…
5. I’m no good at this sort of grading.
Alrightey. On #1 I included notches to make sure the pieces lined up. For the first piece I cut one notch at the convex ends, and on the second piece I cut one notch at the concave parts. I put two notches on the concave parts of the first piece and two notches on the convex ends of the second piece. I also included grainlines on both pieces. I also drew a picture that shows the first pattern piece laying horizontally, and the second pattern piece laying vertically with the notches almost touching just to give a visual picture.
I’m unsure if I’m being unclear by using one & two notches for placement and not necessarily for the front & back. Both pieces are used on the “front” and the “back” as far as I can tell.
This is my best guess on this one. :)