These pop quizzes are always so educational, giving me a lot of insight on where people’s thinking lies. It’s difficult to sort through the many responses (thank you!) but I’ll try. As I said, there were four minor errors and one egregious one. In my opinion, the minor errors amount to lack of matched notches. If the side panel has a notch lining it up to the front, there should be a matching notch on the front as detailed below.
Regarding these elements many mentioned:
Missing pieces, lack of grainline.
I imagine the real pattern would contain all of the needed pieces (facings, linings, upper collar). Obviously one would ask prior to purchase.
Missing double notches.
I’m not sure if this would be corrected on the final purchased version. In any event it’d be an easy fix.
Grading of the dart/pocket/button placement.
This is also okay. The problem is the stacking point of the nest, we’re not used to seeing it like this (site is from the UK). In the US, our stack point is usually to have all lines match at CF/CB with the horizontal balance at the waist. It’s really hard to tell unless you have the pieces on hand to measure up (like Sarah said).
Curvature of the center back and shoulder shaping.
Both are very good things. Your center back and front are not straight. Shaping of the back shoulder seam isn’t what [American] eyes are acclimated to see but this is also good. Try it sometime.
Shoulder seam grade.
Esther brought up something interesting: “All of the width grades look odd to me. In particular the shoulder width grades. The shoulder seams won’t match up.” It’s hard for us to know for certain but it would appear the shoulder line grade for the front shoulder is off.
Now onto what I consider to be the egregious error. The clue appeared in an entry I posted last week, Grading for height when you know nothing about grading. The grade for length -unless it’s for something like a long sheath skirt- must be incremental. The pattern must grow in length from the armpit to the waist and then from the waist to the hip (ditto).
The problem is, all of the length grade, in this case 1/4″ (presumably) is thrown in at the hem. If the pieces were graded in length from armpit to waist, the waist shaping should shift but in this pattern, the side seam shaping is static. In other words, the area of greatest suppression of the waist of the smallest size should appear higher in the nest than the largest size but here, they’re on the same horizontal plane (below).