Pop Quiz #482 pt.1

I found this nested pattern for sale on an unmentioned website. You can buy copies of this pattern block for a men’s suit. Today’s quiz boys and girls, is to itemize all the problems you can see from the nest. I count at least five of which four are minor and one is egregious making this a questionable buy unless you see the difficulty and correct it before hand. Clicking on the image will take you to larger version of the file for a closer examination.

So, have at it; list any errors you find.

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  1. dosfashionistas says:

    I never can spot problems from a graded nest without juggling the patterns myself, and I don’t know menswear for beans, but if the crossmarks are supposed to show matching points, the side panel will not sew to the back. I eagerly await education.

    By the way, I really liked the tutoral on V-necks. Very useful to me. Thank you.

  2. Esther says:

    I would echo the previous comments and add that all of the width grades look odd to me. In particular the shoulder width grades. The shoulder seams won’t match up. And as a pattern note, there are no double notches on the back pieces that I could see. As a personal preference I don’t have things grow at center front or back. I find it very strange that the jacket grows in width at center front which effects the collar.

  3. LisaB says:

    I didn’t see grainlines. Is there supposed to be a pattern for the upper collar?

    I’m curious about the two circled objects to the left of the jacket sketch. The left one appears to be “no tracing wheel”. The right one appears to be a checkmark and a pin? Any clue about what these mean?

  4. Valerie Burner says:

    I always flunk these these tests, but here goes anyway: 1) The length/width were simply added to the neck, hem and side seams equally, rather than divided in the correct places, (inside the jacket pieces, rather than outside) and weren’t really “graded”. (Nested) (There shouldn’t be so much evenness to the neck area. The neck seems like it would actually get smaller the larger the size, and that doesn’t make sense.) 2) There seems to be too much added to the fronts of the jackets. 3) The shoulders look too big, and would throw off the sleeves, which aren’t graded enough to fit the shoulder seams. 4) The pockets and darts do not move with the different sizes. 5) There is only one jacket front. That means that this jacket would end up with two welt pockets at the top (what is that called?)- one on each side, rather than just one on the upper left side. 6) There doesn’t seem to be a facing or an upper collar pattern, thereby eliminating the collar and the front lapels. 7) No grainlines. 8) No sizes are marked. 9) No pattern numbers. 10) The hemlines weren’t marked or at least mentioned. Didn’t even look for notches… Do I get bonus points for trying so hard?!!!

  5. kathleen says:

    Don’t get derailed by the red herring -meaning the stack point of the grade. The big problem I had in mind is much more obvious than trying to guesstimate a proportionate grade etc.

    Keep looking, no one’s named the biggie yet :).

  6. Dawn B says:

    There is no top collar piece (maybe you are supposed to use the one labeled undercollar). The drawing shows it as pointed but the piece is curved where a point should be.

    I have ordered the book and petitioned to join the forum. Hope to see you all over there shortly :)

  7. Leonie says:

    Only found the obvious things so far
    (1) missing pattern pieces for around the collar, lapels and pockets
    (2) no grain lines marked
    (3) no notches marked for matching pieces (although those horizontal lines could be used to indicate where notches could go maybe)
    (4) number of times you need to cut the pieces not noted (easily worked out and generally included)
    (5) sleeve button positions not marked, nor slit for buttons/button holes (too bad if the man has fat hands!)

    When will you let us know the answer?

  8. Fashion K says:

    I love your site. Its so good to see someone make a serious website about fashion details and techniques. I have a fashion blog and i like to put some rock and roll and underground stuff, if you can have a look i would be very grateful. Im from Brazil, and if someone want to publish some creations, just msg me. Thanks…

  9. Lauren Ingle says:

    Don’t most mens suit jackets have a pleat at CB hem? I don’t really know menswear, but I thought that was a general rule to allow the wearer to move.

    Also, If there is vertical grading put into the pocket placement, why not the button which is at the same height and more importantly the dart that is to end at the top of the pocket. When the larger size is sewn the dart will terminate well above the pocket.

  10. heidi says:

    I wonder about the front dart that is not graded at all and the pocket which is only graded in one position. But I know next to nothing about grading.

  11. Katya says:

    I think I see it, is it that the back and front pieces were graded in different directions? The back was graded towards the armhole and the front towards the collar?

  12. Gidget says:

    The upper sleeve and under sleeve don’t look right. It looks like a regular sleeve just cut in half and one side flipped. Wouldn’t this just put a regular underarm seam with an additional seam at the side of the arm?

  13. Katya says:

    It’s not that they were graded differently, but the front’s not graded towards the side seam.

    Also, the front’s armhole is not lowered down for larger sizes.

  14. patsijean says:

    I am not a professional at this….that said:
    1. The back shoulder seam seems to be the wrong shape.
    2. The sleeve head shape seems to be quite wrong, and a bit narrow, when pieces are joined.
    3. Regardless of size the match points of sleeve and body do not change (if those vertical lines are match points.
    4. As the garment goes up in size, the neckline and armhole get smaller. The armhole and front neckline must be lowered for larger sizes.
    5. There is almost no grading for front armhole.
    6. The only adjustment to under collar size is at center back; it would not fit a larger garment.
    7. Where is the upper collar?

  15. j. says:

    I could be wrong… aren’t these pieces reflect one (and the same) side of the body only? The body pieces are for the left side, the sleeve is for the right?

    (But does that matter if instructions are somehow given to cut the appropriate number of pieces out correctly?)

  16. ilean4d says:

    Pattern pieces missing for lapel, collar, pocket welt, jacket linings and fabric stabilizers for jacket front. Also, no allowance and markings for button plackets on the upper sleeve pattern.

  17. Lisa Shoemaker says:

    Do they also sell another pattern for the facing and lining or do you have to draft that yourself? And I think the sizes are labeled, they are just so small that you can’t read them. There is placement for a pocket, but no pocket pieces. I don’t really know anything about grading, but I feel like the front and side front won’t sew together right on all sizes.

  18. victoria kathrein says:


    2. Goofy Grading. Only one side of each seam is graded. All seams should slightly change in grading process inlcuding: collar shape, break in lapel, even position of pocket and buttonhole position.

    3. Armhole depth did not change.

  19. Mary Lombard says:

    You guys are way too nerdy for me! But the main thing that bugs me is the stacking. I know you can stack where ever, but whatever happened to stacking @ the CF/CB? I miss that… If whomever graded this had stacked at the center front they would have realized they graded the freakin’ extension. Now that’s weird.

  20. Sabine says:

    I would need to cut it all out and sew it all before being able to tell the smaller parts of it… but for now I am wondering…
    where are the pattern pieces for the lining?
    where do the buttons on the sleeve get placed?
    where are the pattern pieces for the tops for the pockets? for the pockets themselves?

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