The first part of this tutorial appeared yesterday. As nobody has jumped up to supply a useful name for this tutorial it shall remain nameless, hence the title of this post. Where is everybody? I’m sewing amid a plethora of boxes (still not unpacked from the move) and could use a hand around here. As it is, this post almost didn’t happen since I had a heckuva time finding the connection cord for my sewing machine but I digress. The subject of this post is how to join the facing, hem and linings together (correctly) in the front inside of a tailored jacket or sport coat entirely by machine, facilitating the bagging process. The full-size pattern pieces to which I refer are found here and here.
Today’s topic deals specifically with the order of the sewing process. Tomorrow I will discuss the features of the sample pattern, the variables (differing facing and hem widths) and how to apply this solution to the particulars of your projects. Friday will be the last portion of this segment and it will describe the challenges of applying the solution in the commercial environment with suggestions for application.
Here you’ll see my pieces cut out. The shell is the light blue canvas and the lining is represented by the taupe colored raw silk. I realize lining is rarely raw silk but one is limited by what one can find. You’ll also note that one -obviously- has not found an iron either.
The first thing you want to do is sew the lining to the hem as shown below. The pieces should match precisely.
Next, (below) you want to fold the facing -right sides together- on the fold line. Actually, you should have notched that fold line to facilitate this. In real life of course, that fold line would actually be the seam of the front of the jacket and the facing joined.
Below you’ll see I’ve sewn this into place. Please note, this allowance is 1/4″ because the seam allowance of all outside edges remains 1/4″. You should also note that you should stop sewing 3/8″ before the end of the facing, don’t sew the whole thing down. If you did, just undo the last bit of it.
Below is a view of the seam from the opposite side. I’ve shown this because you need to clip into that corner as I have.
Now you want to fold the lining and joined hem into position to sew the last seam. It may not be readily apparent in the photo below but what I’ve done is quite clear in subsequent photos.
Below you’ll see the seam is sewn. By the way, it’s a fallacy that all seams should be pressed open (butterflied). The lining/hem is one such seam. The seam remainders should be laying in the direction shown. The reason is that were this a real project rather than a sample of scrap fabric, the hem would be fused and a layer of wigan attached. Wigan as you well know, tends toward the recalcitrant and refuses to be butterflied. Wigan is nothing if not sensible, don’t you agree?
Below you’ll see how the piece looks now.
Note the corners on both sides of the facing; below you’ll see that I’ve trimmed these off catty-corner.
Below you’ll see that I’ve turned the sample right side out. After a nice pressing, you’re good to go.
Related:
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Nameless tutorial #4
Nameless #5 (back vent)
Nameless #6 -Troubleshooting
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Wow, I see I have a lot of catching up to do! I’ve been so busy at work that it’s really cut into my internet time. :-O This is a great tutorial, Kathleen! I am definitely going to print it out and save it – I’ve been finishing that last little bit of the facing with a Hong Kong finish for lack of knowing a better way. This is such an improvement! I hope your move wasn’t too stressful and that you are getting settled in.
I was also using (like Gigi) a Hong Kong finish here. This is much, much better!
Hi Kathleen! I think this was what my Mother was wanting to know how to do when she was working on her blazer. I should post pics of of her blazer cause she used all your tutorials and it looks great! I’ve been busy working on fonts and rebuilding a room of our shop to make more room. I should be back to working on patterns/sewing in October.
It works!
Nameless tutorial #4
The biggest problem with applying this in a commercial setting is habit. It is habit that once one starts to sew a seam, one doesn’t stop sewing the given seam until it is completed. There’s not a stitcher on the…
An answer to a prayer. Thanks you for such detail. I am a very frustrated sew-er and needed this desperately. Now all I need to find is how to properly turn inside out a lined jacket.
I am so happy to have found this and tried it! I have been searching unsuccessfully for a good tutorial on this and vented jackets. I tried this project tonight and whee! it works!! Next, on to a real garment!
I have looked over several pages of the site but I can’t find the “Donate” button. I don’t want/need a full book but I’d gladly pay a few bucks for this tutorial’s use.
Hi, LVA,
To make a donation, go to the home page and look over on the right hand side of the page. You’ll find the link just below the paragraph “About Fashion Incubator.” I agree, Kathleen’s information is very valuable.
I’m so happy to have found this. I’m new to sewing and my husband has enlisted me to make him a coat. Thanks
This tutorial is amazing. I have long had this question on how to complete the attachment of the facings and the lining to properly bag a jacket. Brava! This tutorial is just as relevant now as when you wrote it.
This is great! I make a lot of my own clothing (anything that I want to fit well.) I’ve been sewing since I was 8, which is more decades than I care to admit. My mother always taught me to do things so that they look as if they were professionally made – why spend your time making something that lookes “homemade”? That is a word we used to describe something that was poorly made, as opposed to handmade.
It’s great to see this, step by step, and coming out looking so neat and professionally made.
Suggested title
Assembly sequence PT2 – Step by Step -Tailored jacket, hem, lining and facing construction