I was going to put this in the tutorial I promised but realized it would be good as a stand alone entry for those of you who are collecting the fusing maps I post occasionally. Clicking on the image will load a larger version of the file.
Now for some explanatory text:
- The pink pieces are fusible superimposed over pieces they are paired with.
- The grey pieces are shell or self.
- The green pieces are contrast.
- The blue piece is lining.
The above are standard color coding conventions used in the trade. Well, not quite. Shell/Self is black but that is too hard to read on the screen. Ditto for pink; fusible is coded red but I find red too garish for viewing.
Now a run down on pieces as numbered. The pieces are numbered for the convenience of discussion -this is not how it’s done in real life.
- The front waistband
- Front waistband facing
- Front facing
- Contrast collar
- Shell collar
- Back waistband
- Welt pocket
- Welt pocket (inside lining)
The fusible on the back piece (#10) is optional, as is a fusible for the front shoulder line that is not shown (didn’t notice it was missing until now). Whether you include these amounts to a design decision. If your sleeves will be inordinately heavy (leather etc) and the shell it is sewn to is not equally heavy, you might add fusible to support the shoulder line.
All fusible pieces are cut 1/8″ smaller than the edges they are paired to. These prevents the fusible from obscuring the seam lines.