My friend Rita lent me some of her Russian pattern drafting books -Russian pattern drafting being my some time obsession but if you saw some of these, you’d understand. Case in point is one book on the pattern drafting of lingerie such as girdles, panties and bras (I confess to keyword stuffing but too few would know to search for “foundations” which is what these items are called).…
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Computational Couture revisited
Not to be confused with the Computational Couture event I wrote of before, Grace sends word of Mary Huang, a quasi curator of computational design. Actually, she uses the word “couture” but we know I don’t like that. heh. Huang defies a fast scan or redux, not much help for my overclocked cognitive processing today -I thought fashion was supposed to be easy.…
How to find a missing dart end
Have you ever had the experience of getting a pattern that doesn’t have the end of the dart marked? Or, have you mistakenly failed to mark the end point of the dart and only discover it well past the point of recovery?…
Shaping the underbust
I didn’t really know how to title this post but I did want to revisit the subject of princess line side panel shaping (from Lazy pattern making) as some of the comments from visitors regarding bust shaping were interesting.
Regarding the development of a snug fitting bodice shell, in the Apparel Manufacturing Handbook, Solinger provides this sketch:
With regards to draft development, he states (pp 74-75):
…for an apparel form with a pronounced bust cleft and under bust line, must have a triple angled dart with a waist line base and an angled center front or dart in the center front (see Fig.
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Alternatives in women’s sizing
In my continuing series discussing fit and apparel sizing (see links at close); I’ve failed to explain how sizing determinations are made, how standards are drawn followed by industry application. In this post I’ll explain how survey data is aggregated from which standard grade rules are drawn and perhaps, a potential solution to the biggest problems.…