Zippered welt pockets

My next on-line tutorial will be how to make zippered welt pockets. In order to do this project, you’ll first have to learn how to make welt pockets. The method I will show you follows how a welt pocket machine -usually called a Reece machine because it’s made by Reece -since merged with AMF and now known as AMF Reece– but still called a reece machine (a pdf product brochure is here). By the way, the name we use to describe this kind of pocket in the trade, is also reece. We don’t call these welt pockets. We call them reece pockets. The pattern is labeled that way and if you asked somebody for a reece, they’d know you meant a cut rectangle measuring 8″ x 3″ because it only takes one piece of fabric to make these, not two (in manufacturing, you have to make your pattern pieces specific to the machine being used and this is one example of that). The underwelt for a reece is 8″ x 2 1/2″. Oh, and we do call an under welt an under welt. I know that’s not logical but why does everybody assume the trade always does things logically? Believe me, I couldn’t make this stuff up if I tried.

Anyway, the pocket portion is first. I’ll post a pattern for the pocket probably by Monday at the latest. I’ll also be posting a pattern for a paper jig that you’ll need to make. You can make the pocket without the paper jig but that’d be dicey if you haven’t made a lot of these. I’ve made a lot but I still prefer a jig. Anyway, that’s the next factory floor tutorial.

Entries in this series (links open in a new window):
Zippered welt pockets
Welt-Reece machine operations
Marking & Cutting
Welt and paper jig
Welt pocket construction

Other zipper related tutorials:
Process review: lapped zipper
Lapped zipper template
Lapped zipper construction
Lapped zipper specs
Centered zipper template
Centered zipper construction
Invisible zipper tutorial pt.1
Invisible zipper tutorial pt.2
Shorten a separating zipper
Zippered welt pocket tutorial
Deconstructing a zippered pouch

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  1. kathleen says:

    Mia, you’re funny ;)

    Josh. Yeah, it’ll be an interesting comparison and practice because -truth be told- I’ve never done one that I can remember. I’m just using this as an exercise in applying solid operations used in one area, to be used in another. Also, I’ve already figured out that there are a couple of ways the inside can be finished and this mostly depends on where or how it’s used. For example, if it is used as a hip pocket, then designing for quality means making the underwelt longer so that it can be anchored into the back waistband seam for stability and strength. However, if used within the body of a garment, anchoring couldn’t be done in a similar way so a longer underwelt would be superfluous.

  2. Kathleen says:

    In the upper left sidebar under “Admin”, click on the link that reads “Tutorials Index”. Therein, you’ll find all of the welt pocket tutorials listed in order. And other stuff too.

  3. Joyce Stevens says:

    I was looking for the zippered welt pocket tutorial. I see the welt tutorial but was unable to find the zippered welt. Is it available?
    JP Stevens

  4. Kathleen says:

    It’s all the same. Once you’re done with the welt pocket, you attach the zipper by laying it under the pocket and then stitch in the ditch of the welt lips and the shell.

  5. anncie1 says:

    This is awesome. The way I learned the reece pocket in tailoring school was a little longer then this. I like your method better it’s faster.

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