# Which size should be used for costing? pt.2

In part one I asked which size should be the size used for costing if sizes ranged from 28-48 with inseams varying from 28-36.

Here’s how I set it up, waist sizes on the horizontal across the top and inseams on the vertical axis to locate the mid point of the range. The blue box shows what should be the costing size, a 38 waist with 32 inch inseam. The size this firm had been using is illustrated in red, a 34/32.

I know this isn’t the final best possible answer but it’s at least 4″ better than their last one.

Sarah gave the answer I was looking for which is not to say other suggestions weren’t also good or pragmatic. Alison said it should be based on marker allocation (and it should) but this can vary according to size distribution of a given order and it requires that purchasing and sales have yield information at their disposal and they often don’t. This is how a lot of companies are run these days. Alison then suggested the costing size be based on the median size of the order but again, this solution requires they have the allocation figures for a given order.

Barb had an interesting suggestion, to cost on the median size for the majority of orders placed with an up charge on the larger sizes.

Lastly, Esther said CAD systems do a costing marker (true) which provides the best figure for cost analysis but again, this solution would require tighter communication of critical data between sales and the pattern department.

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1. Rocio says:

-“it requires that purchasing and sales have yield information at their disposal and they often don’t. This is how a lot of companies are run these days”-

This is a perfect example of how a lot of companies that decided to off-shore development to “save money” are now paying for it in other ways

As Ester suggests…. every company I work with gets fabric consumption from a yield based on the pattern (Yields can be done manually without a CAD System) BUT… again… if a company doesn’t understand the value and advantages that investing in owning their patterns affords them, then I suppose there is no point in giving them a solution that involves some sort of investment.

2. dosfashionistas says:

Kathleen, you teach me something almost every day!

Now I will tell you a tale. Back when El Centro was just starting up, they tried to recruit me to teach.

3. Sabine says:

I have a question here…when the sizing for the grading is done in 2 ” increments like the waists of jeans…are the “bums” graded in 2″ increments as well?
If they are, ok, i understand the median sizing thing.
If not, is the middle size really the medium for fabric use? ( i guess I still need to study a lot more on grading, but I thought I read that not all points grow in a linear fashion like this) or is the difference so minimal that it does not matter?

What I would suggest…have smaller size groups in sizes of 5 or 6, work with 2, better 4 size mediums, get their averages. (32/30, 44/30, 32/34 and 44/34), order according to that.

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