Tutorial: one piece neck & sleeveless facing

11sp_skirtFollowing up with last week’s spiral dress challenge, has anyone given any thought as to how the dress can be put on? The neckline is too small to pull over the head so a zipper will be required. Meaning, making a one piece facing to finish off the armholes and neckline of this style just got a little more complicated.

Actually, it’s not that hard. Luckily enough I’ve I’ve done it before and by way of example, have a leather skirt to show you that I designed in the mid 90’s (when I thought I might sell copies of patterns). The skirt is made of pig suede (a proto of course) with 8″ brown fringe. I like blue and brown together. This skirt is really cute on.

Anyway, like our spiral dress, it has an inside facing and zipper closure. The zipper is set at an angle.

Below is a photo of what the zipper looks like. On the left side is the zipper opened from the outside (it can’t be seen at all under the fringe, you never even know it’s there). On the right side is a view of the zipper (opened) from inside the skirt. As you will note, the skirt has a waist facing and is also lined. There is a row of cording between the facing and the lining. The cording isn’t required by any means; it is one of those touches I like to put in my garments (why do people get the idea I make crap?).

But anyway, you can find the tutorial for the all in one facing here. And again, I regret it is gated but it has to be that way for now (until I put out a sewing/pattern book) because other people republish my content without attribution.

Speaking of, I have another article in Threads magazine this month. Yes, the mobius scarf I wrote about back in 2006 (here and here).  And again, with someone else’s name on it. Although I also did see that someone else previously ran with the content and started selling a pattern of it in 2009 which based on the description, I’m sure came from a series of emails I exchanged with someone who obviously misrepresented their intentions (I am too trusting). Which means, I should probably put the pattern out myself. I plan to do that this week and make it available for digital download.

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  1. patsijean says:

    Love the scarf. I can’t imagine why people pirate intellectual property. I haven’t cheated since a third grade spelling test.

  2. Renee says:

    I, for one, would never accuse you of making anything with less than the correct level of quality for the particular market. After reading your book, I think it is quite clear that you would rather sell fewer units at a higher pricepoint than sell more units at a lower price of something sub-par in terms of quality.

  3. Quincunx says:

    I thought about chiffon ribbon drawstrings laced over a neckline vent as a closure, but rejected it–but didn’t realize why I rejected it ’til today’s reminder that it’s a _child’s_ dress. Fluffy neckline strings, or any strings, are a no-no on a kid’s outfit even if you’re sewing ’em at home for home use.

    . . .and holy mackerel, you really -do- put fringe on everything.

    . . .is it still possible to put fringe on a child’s outfit if it’s intended for sale? Fringe can certainly be detached easier than drawstrings can be broken. Dig in my schoolyard and you might just find strips of leather from my friend’s jacket, buried with all due ceremony circa 1989. (quick look at the CPSC database) I see nothing about fringe, but applying the guidelines for waist-level drawstrings and restricting it to 3 inches couldn’t hurt.

  4. Kathleen says:

    I don’t know about fringe on kid’s clothes -except to say I have done it for personal projects (this skirt isn’t for a child). The issue with drawstrings is that it involves a closed (tied/secured) loop.

  5. Matthew Pius says:

    I’m distressed to hear that people think you make crap, Kathleen. The skirt is nifty. Question about setting the zipper into an angled seam, though – wouldn’t that cause there to more more above the top stop on one side than the other? (it’s not readily visible in the photo) Perhaps it’s not a problem because the amount is so small? Of course it would have to be done this way, though – it would ruin all those diagonals by cutting a zipper placket straight down through them.

  6. Lisa Brazus says:

    Ok Kathleen you are really getting me excited. This is the second post I have read where you have discussed your patternmaking book. When & where do I send the $$ so I may have one!!Congrats

  7. Traci Akierman says:

    The skirt, though not my personal taste, is pretty. I want to try the spiral effect on a shirt or dress for my daughter.

    I am bummed that you are being ripped off. You give so much, it’s a shame that people take advantage. I saw that Threads article and thought “what a cool idea!” not having seen your previous mobius scarf posts.

    I also can not wait for that pattern book. If there is some sort of waiting list, put me on it!

  8. Kathleen says:

    Matthew: the angled zip comes out better than you’d think but it is important to hit the points just right or it becomes uneven. On an inexpensive child’s dress it’s not so important. The zip on the skirt isn’t exactly perfect but it is hidden in the seam and fringe.

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