Some friends I have in another sewing venue had a problem fitting a commercial (home sewing) pattern that I agreed to analyze with the caveat that I wouldn’t be linking to anyone nor mentioning parties by name. If you know the source of which I speak, feel free to comment but refrain from identifying anyone through words or linking because I have no wish to embarrass anyone. As it is, these are problems I see in RTW all the time and it annoys me. As usual, I have already worked out what I consider to be the problem (and solution) but I’ve decided to post it in this format to see what you all pick up.
Several women bought a blouse pattern that is specifically designed for various cup sizes. It comes in regular and plus sizes. Having difficulty, the women who bought it began to compare notes and photos in an attempt to analyze the reasons for the fitting problems they were having. One of the women sent me the pattern, portions of which I digitized for illustration purposes. Others supplied photos of their results. While they had several complaints, what I considered to be the problems differed from theirs (I’m curious to see if you agree with me or them). Based on this photo (below) of a typical result (stunning that all the photos from many different bodies performed the same way!), my immediate impression was that the yoke was made improperly. I see this problem in RTW all the time, hence the reason I post this.
I’ve given you half the answer. The yoke was made improperly so please explain in what way the yoke was poorly made. For the purposes of comparison, here is a yoked shirt from a pattern I made that doesn’t have the problem -as I define it. Other than the collar and neckline, these styles are very similar.
Here is a side view of the former example to help you discern what else may be going on with this style.
Below is a view of the back. The only hint I’ll give you with this one is that other than an improperly made yoke which carries over onto the back, I’m looking for one glaring issue that’s largely only visible from the back and the side view above this one.
Please do your best at identifying these problems although I know you can’t really be certain without looking at the pattern. One last hint I will reiterate. I realize that there is a great deal of variation in how patterns and garments will fit different bodies but every photo I saw showed what I consider to be the same key deficits. In my opinion, there are two key problems which contribute to the creation of a third. There is a hierarchy to these things if that makes any sense. Lastly, there is a problem you can’t possibly see without the pattern and it is related to how the style was graded. I’ll explain that in the third post.