Pop Quiz #475

Harvested from my spam folder, a solicitation for jackets made in China provides fodder for today’s quiz. Consider the sizing specs in the chart, why could the grading of these jackets be a problem?

By the way, this is not to be construed as a slam against Chinese made jackets. It is more likely they’ve pulled specs from previous clients based in the US.

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  1. Far too even.

    1) The difference between an XS and an S is the same as the difference between an XXL and an XXXL. The increments should be greater in the larger sizes.

    2) Length and width increase at exactly the same rate. Width should increase faster.

    Also (I think this is the one you’re asking for): too many sizes.

    An XS and an XXXL are not the same shape. There need to be two different patterns, one for slim/standard and one for plus sizes, each one graded to three or four sizes.

  2. Vesta says:

    I have no experience in grading, but it seems weird to me that they’d just tack on 3 centimeters to the length and width for each size. First, I would imagine that length and width would tend to change at different rates (on average, of course) as people get larger. Second, I would imagine that the change wouldn’t be linear as you move up the sizes (even if it were the same between length and width).

  3. Tiffany says:

    I am by no means an expert, but this makes no sense. They are grading way two many sizes with the same grade rules. XS-L would require one set of rules, while xl-3xl would require another. I am highly suspect of and grade rules where both the length and the width grow by the same increment.

  4. Kate says:

    I agree with Tiffany. The length measurement doesn’t increase nearly as much as the width measurement over a size range.

  5. Big Irv says:

    I would assume the sleeve length commensurates with the body size as well.

    I know every brand has their own fit, but some of these sizes especially XL thru 3X are exceptionally huge.

  6. Valerie Burner says:

    Since I bombed the other pop-quizzes, I’ll make another stab today on this one!

    Good-looking flat, but isn’t it missing a bunch of dimensions? How long are the sleeves? What is the circumference at the sleeve opening? What is the dimension of the shoulder seam, and how about the collar? What about the length of the back- it’s longer than the front- and those curves-what are the radii? The pockets, where do they sit in relation to the rest of the jacket?

    All these things mentioned would be affected by the grading process. If you widen the front, the shoulder seams are affected. So is the collar. So are the armholes. What about the back? Does that change or stay the same? If you lengthen the jacket, the same rules apply to the armholes. What about the pockets- do they get bigger or smaller or stay the same? What about the sleeves- do they stay the same length and end up at the elbow on the 3XL and cover the hands on the XS? Do they get larger or smaller according to size? How do they change when there are no dimensions?

    I also agree with the others who state that things are not graded so equally, as this is done here, and things are graded differently in different parts of the pattern.

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