In reference to yesterday’s pop quiz, the correct answer is nest #2. Off topic: even if this topic doesn’t interest you, scroll down to “placket size” for a critically important tip regarding the difference between a pattern made by someone lacking production experience, and one made by someone with a lot of experience.
I rejected Nest 1 and requested Nest 2, with panels nested so the AH [armhole] base is at the same level (X-coordinate). With the second nest, it only took me few seconds to figure out that they were not grading this correctly. The correct grade was supposed to be:
- A total length grade of 3/4″.
- The AH depth is about 1/3 of total length.
- The Side seam is about 2/3 of total length.
But as you can see from the corrected nest (#2), the grade of the AH depth was 1/2″ (see shoulder) and the side seam only 1/4″(see sweep).
In children’s garments, depending on the styling and owing to their shorter torsos, it is occasionally conceivable that a grade could be split fifty-fifty. However, under no circumstances would it be correct for the upper half of the torso (AH and shoulder line) to comprise two-thirds of the total grade as it was in this case. Ever. In order to readily discern these proportions, it is traditional to align the nest along the AH horizontal plane. That plane is the zero point.
Regarding the horizontal line placed in the nests, this was a match stripe. Todd correctly answered all of the questions including the bonus question saying
I’m looking at the front of a shirt…It has a horizontal stripe matching line perhaps. I would prefer to work with the second nest because I can make out the armholes and necklines distinctly. The grader may have been trying to simplify the first set by using the placket and stripe matching line as the reference for the rest of the nest.
I think some people went off tangent on the placket length. It is more typical for placket length (and welt pocket length) to be the same across a spread of sizes because placket making (and welt pocket making) are automated and the machine is set to a specific length. It’s not like home sewing or sample making where you just sew short. Larger concerns -companies who’d make golf shirts like this for kids- are not concerned about altering the placket machine to shorten or lengthen the placket by an 1/8th of an inch per size. It’s too costly to adjust the machine every time that operator gets a bundle of a different size. It’s not going to happen. Or, it will cost more to organize the variously sized bundles, grouping them together so the machine is adjusted as few times as possible.
By the way, this is just one difference between a pattern made by a “first” pattern maker, and one made by a production pattern maker. This is why a contractor prefers patterns from someone they’ve worked with before. This is not to say you shouldn’t have your placket grow in relation to sizes, not at all, but it will cost more. To keep costs contained, the sorting system will require extra care. Secondly, again in reference to a not production ready pattern, a contractor may not realize you’ve marked the placket for different lengths until they’re sewing it (unless they’ve seen the nest, properly nested of course). In the marker, that placket length will be marked with drill holes. Once drilled, the plackets must be sewn to whatever length you’ve marked, incurring costs neither party expected. For this reason, the cost of your production run may be higher than quoted. This is why contractors prefer to work with pattern makers who know how to make production ready patterns. Likewise, this is a good reason to hire a specialist in your product type.
There’s other production pattern making tips in my book.