Yesterday I said that few of us would say these sleeves aren’t a problem but the first problem is ___________ (fill in the blank). There was no shortage of responses, thank you everyone. The answer I was looking for was __the bodice__.
Specifically the front bodice. I stressed two other things yesterday as well:
- You have to know the order in which to fix the problem because
- There may be other problems that are not manifest until one issue is repaired.
I think most agree there’s two problems (bodice and sleeve), possibly a third (the back neck). It’s premature to talk about fixing that sleeve if you haven’t repaired the thing the sleeve is anchored to first. You can’t hopscotch around when fitting the anchoring of the bodice. Step one, step two, step three etc. Too many people want to apply too many fixes at once so you really don’t know what fixed what (for future reference) or where the problem is if a fitting issue remains.
Lesson: Don’t bother trying to repair a poorly fitted sleeve if you haven’t fixed the bodice. Once the bodice is together, then worry about the sleeve.
Here was my solution to this problem. I think the front bodice is too big at CF (those drag lines, pulling away from front neck etc). This is why (in part) the sleeves are falling backwards off the form. So, if this were my job, I’d make this first correction I’ve illustrated below.
Imagine this were a fold piece, I’ve taken out a dart at CF neck, tapering to zero at the hem.
It’s possible that the back would also need correcting but this wouldn’t be apparent until the front were corrected. Once those two were repaired (if both were needed) then the sleeve could get an overhaul. It’s definitely a pain to have to do this in two or three steps but it’s really the only way to pinpoint it.
Luckily for us, Clara (who asked the original question) is really on the ball. Between the time I posted the solution yesterday, she made the correction and sewed up another dummy. The result is below. Voila, drag lines are gone.
In the forum, Els posted another solution which was interesting for a couple of reasons. Maybe Clara will be a sport and try that one too. That one is below.
Tomorrow I will post her full solution which includes her analysis of the sleeve problem. Yeah Els!