Pop Quiz #484 Sleeve problem or not?

There’s no doubt there are problems with this sleeve, but is that all there is to it? Obviously that’s a big hint of what I think.

The problem with fitting in general is two fold. First you have to look beyond the obvious fitting symptom. Then you have to know the order in which to fix it (or them). Few of us would say these sleeves aren’t a problem but the first problem is ___________ (fill in the blank).

Here’s a close up of a gap in the neckline.

For another perspective, here’s what it looks like in another fabrication.

In your opinion, does this prove or disprove your answer? Don’t be fooled. Here’s some hints as to why the problem may be masked:

  1. The goods are lighter weight.
  2. The neckline hasn’t been stabilized by a facing or stiffened with fusible.
  3. The garment is sticking to the undergarment on the form rather than sliding freely.

If you think it’ll help you, here’s a photo of the pattern.

Feel free to post your answers including whether you disagree there is any problem other than the sleeve. You may also post your proposed solutions to the problem(s) you’ve identified.

If you want to cheat, my answer is here. If you disagree with my assessment, please save your comments for tomorrow when we can all discuss argue about it rather than giving it away. Have fun!

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  1. Kay Y says:

    Without looking at your answer, I’d say the shoulder width is too narrow, which is causing the shoulders to pull up and away, grabbing space from the V neck. The second picture tells me nothing about the fit of the shoulders, with sleeve, because (I think) the sleeves are not sewn into it.

  2. Dawn B says:

    I’m probably wrong but I’ll take a crack at it. I think the first thing that has to fit properly is the shoulders. The shoulder seam looks too far back. The back neck should come up higher so the garment doesn’t pull to the back.

  3. dosfashionistas says:

    The main problem is that the front and back bodice pieces are unbalanced. The front needs more width over the bust and a redo in the shoulder line. The back needs less width on the underarm and that will rotate the sleeve further around and take some of the tension off with that alone. The back armseye is too deep.

    Now I am going to go look and see what I missed.

  4. colleen says:

    I would start by correcting the shoulder seam placement by moving it forward.
    Adjust the shoulder slope, front armhole and sleeve.
    I would also reduce the neck opening.
    Normally, I correct the most obvious fit problems, then fine tune.

  5. Emma A says:

    I will cheat and look at your post in a sec, but first I wanna try..
    In my opinion the biggest problem is the width of the sleave head…it’s looks very narrow and causes the sleeve to pull over the top part. But I mainly work w. trousers so I will not take a to big claim at beeing correct. Reg. the neckline it looks to have been stretched when sewing, or that the grain is bias on the neck facing maybe?

  6. Hmmm…..these are my first impressions, after just taking a brief glance at the photos (how’s that for a disclaimer in case I am WAY wrong, LOL)…

    -Shoulder slopes are wrong.
    -Sleeve cap too high/ too much cap ease.

  7. ken simmons says:

    I think the shoulder is not the correct slope but that could be from the goods stretching at the bias “V” neckline seams. That should be taped to prevent stretch.

  8. Zaz says:

    problem with the armhole first, too wide at the bottom and also another problem with the armhole: it’s clings to the armpit, it seems, annoying. plus how can you have a curb up in the front armhole? it can in no way make a flowing line with the armhole line at the back.

    the sleeve seems to belong to another dress.

  9. Oriole says:

    I would have to agree with Emma, it looks as if the sleeve is to tight causing the neck to pull open. Bias in the V could cause the ripple, but I think if the sleeve was wider thru the cap then the neck and shoulder wouldn’t be pulled out of place.

  10. Alexis says:

    It looks like the back of the shirt is caught on something, I’m assuming the undergarment, and just needs to be pulled down in front. That’s what I’d do first before altering the pattern because it would only take a few seconds to see if I was wrong….

  11. Diane S. says:

    The first thing I think I see is that the facing is not cut the same as the shirt neckline, but they made it fit. Also maybe too stiff interfacing….. Gonna go peek at the answer now….

  12. Leah Barrett says:

    My impression is the front armhole is too deep, reducing the front width, making the front taut, and pushing the shoulder and neckline upwards?? It doesn’t show in the light weight fabric because the fabric “gives in” to the extra pull, but the stress will cause it to tear later perhaps.

  13. Natasha says:

    sleeve is too small for the opening of front and back armhole…and armhole is too small for where it’s located, meaning, the shoulder needs to be fixed, at least one has to be shifted over — back and front have to match up at hps. It’s as if the back neck opening is too wide for the front, and the front, at least, is not wide enough at the end of shoulder where it meets the sleeve…have to look at the answer but forgot my login…do I have one?

  14. Jinjer says:

    Without looking at any other suggestions, my guess is that
    1) The back neck is too wide.
    2) the front shoulder seam is too high at the neck.

    The back neck being too wide forces the front neckline to stretch open to fit it. The front neckline fits the back by pivoting around the neckline point at CF, widening the front neckline, and dumping extra fabric in the armpits. The angle of the neckline isn’t flat, creating a gap at the shoulder.

    I also think the shape of the front shoulder should be more square–it’s too high at the neck.
    in the stiffer version, you see a diagonal wrinkle between the neckline and the armhole, and in the soft fabric, there’s a little extra fabric in a fold just below the neckline. These problems are (I think) caused by the shape of the shoulder seam.

    But, man it’s hard to pull that out with that too-tight sleeve.

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