Pop Quiz #483

I found this graded pattern on a website that I’ll link to later once I give the answer to this quiz. This is a nested front and back semi-fitted jacket pattern for women’s apparel. The challenge for you today boys and girls is, what is wrong with this pattern that is readily discernible? Specifically, I refer to the CB line.

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  1. Noah L says:

    hhhmmm well the center back which is probably on a fold should be a straight line instead the pattern in question looks to be angled in, preventing it to be on the fold. yes?

  2. Heather says:

    To me, it looks as though the whole back is ‘shifted’ at the top and it will cause pulling at the shoulder or hip. If it is on the fold, then it is a mistake for production. Besides throwing the back piece onto the bias grain, it will then be cut as half a jacket back. The nests I’ve seen show folded pieces open. I’ve seen jacket lining pieces that have this shape, and if that is the case, it’s missing the notch at the top to show the pleat at the CB seam.

  3. Clara Rico says:

    It is fine to shape the center back line, but it should follow the shape of the body. Namely the center back should curve in near the neck, not out as if the neck angled backward. For a body shape more like () or |) rather than (( or |(.
    Also the center back should have double notches.

  4. oliviacw says:

    The pattern is growing wider with size changes, but not any longer along the back. The shoulders are gaining some length, but at some point you also need additional back length.

  5. Kay Y says:

    I’m going to say that the length adjustments are wonky on both front and back, but more obviously on the back since all sizes have the same CB length. I also find it strange that the armscye in front gets lower in the bigger sizes but there is no overall length adjustment to correspond, i.e. the side seams get shorter at the same time.

  6. ClaireOKC says:

    OK – since it’s supposed to be “readily visible” and used to BWOF patterns, the curved back needs some fitting around the shoulders….either a dart at the back neckline, or a curve in the center back seam….can’t wait to hear this AND to see the pattern online!

  7. barbmaslen says:

    I agree, the CB length is the same for all sizes, which is crazy. And if it is going to be curved I would expect a convex curve from the neck to accommodate the thoracic curve.


  8. I agree with Oliviacw. For the most part, the people I sew for are proportionally taller as they get larger. Large people can reasonably hold more weight than smaller framed people.

    I don’t know if that holds true for the general population though. Most of the people I sew for have substantial Native American ancestry, and most of the tribes from reservations around our area of Oklahoma are tend to have larger frames than non-Indians.

  9. Emma A says:

    As C. Rica says, totaly ok to shape CB line…but don’t shape it like that! :) It will not follw (a normal) body shape and the CB neck is not straight angled, which will give the neck line a pointy shape.

    The grading of the scy is also wrong. The arm hole is growing very much and side lengt decreases in the bigger sizes. The neck hole might be too big in the bigger sizes also, or is it only the back lengt grading missing? Would need to see exact numbers… Funny nest however. :)

  10. Valerie Burner says:

    Like you say in the book, if the CB point isn’t sitting on the neck properly, the entire jacket will not fit correctly. That is the most important point in the fitting of the jacket, and I agree that the CB at the neck point should be curving in toward the neck, rather than out like it is. If it is constructed like this, the shoulders will pull toward the back, the front will pull up and be too short, it won’t be comfortable, and will it hang smoothly.

  11. Donna Sebastian says:

    I agree with what has been said. Double notch. Curve in upper neck to match body contour. My eye sight can’t pick up if neck isn’t squared, but it should be. Not sure about length issue. My drafting instructor used to curve all her garments in back for a better fit.

  12. StaceyE says:

    There is one other point that I find amusing besides the CB angle. Take a look at the dart length grade and then at the waist length grade. The bust point keeps getting closer and closer to the waist as the sizes go up. As previously mentioned, there is no length grade below the armhole level. This could be a pattern for one person over time. They stay the same height and as they gain weight over the years, their bust point keeps dropping. I can relate!

  13. StaceyE — yeah, I caught that too. This doesn’t seem to be about grading to an overall larger size, but to thinner and fatter versions of someone of a particular height. Morphing not grading.

  14. alboulay says:

    I agree that the CB should be squared at the neck line then curved to blend to the notch.
    Also the CB notch should be graded and move with each size as should the hem. But in this case, it looks like people only grow in length from waist up. If the CB notch doesn’t move in relation to the side seam this jacket will be disproportionate.
    For the larger size the shoulders raise as the A/H drops which is fine, but then the SS gets shorter too for larger size? —don’t believe that’s usually the case. Distribute the lengthwise grade a little better.
    I also don’t like the idea that, for a top, there are two (0,0) coordinates on the same piece: at CB neck and at CB hem.

  15. dosfashionistas says:

    The shape at the center back does not follow the contour of the body. It should curve slightly more and come into the neck at a right angle, not pointed out. Also, the curve out for the hip should be larger than the curve out for the shoulders. And there should be a double notch. And the back neck and shoulders are very strange. It looks as though the larger size is actually smaller than the smaller size, but I may not be following the line correctly. Since the pieces are stacked at the waist, the back length (y coordinate as we are looking at these) should be showing more grade at the neck and at the shoulders on the back. If someone handed me these pieces I would start by working on that back pattern and then just regrade the whole thing. I tend to get confused when I try to fix someone else’s mistake.

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