I’m out of town today, off to Los Angeles again through Saturday. In the meantime, I’ll leave you with the answers to the most recent challenge. I thought the answers provided in comments to the quiz were very interesting and educational!
Robyn mentioned the raised embroidery technique was called passementerie. Wiki says this includes effects like fringe and tassel making. Hmm. The photo of the sample there doesn’t convince me but what do I know? There’s more on passementerie too.
Els described the effect as made with bias tubing -with which I’d concur. I don’t think it’s corded though. I think the fill we see is due to seam allowances. For comparison, here’s a photo of a bias corded sample from Colette Wolfe’s book, The Art of Manipulating Fabric.
I love Colette’s book. I love everything about it. All black and white photography (all you need if it’s done well) using plain muslin; it’s the definitive work on surface design effects.
Regarding the gathering feature on the left, I would have described this as cartridge pleating. A lot of people think cartridge pleating must be corded (as on judges gowns) but that’s not necessarily true. Liz C. said this feature is called “stroked gathering”, a technique I’m not familiar with. She says:
Stroked gathering is similar to cartridge pleating (or gauging, as you’ll find it called for the mid-19th century, which is my favorite era), in that the finished results are both low-bulk and very orderly. Stroked gathering is worked along a cut edge and that edge is eventually included in the seam; gauging is worked through a folded edge of the fabric, and is not included in a stitched seam with the flat portion of the garment.
I’ll have to look into this more later. The released fullness I would describe as tucks dispersed amid the “stroked gathers” or cartridge pleating.
More than anything though, I’d be interested in seeing what this pattern would look like. This is the sort of thing I like making.
Thanks for your many contributions!