Posting will be light this week; I’m preparing for a class.
While I was correcting a set of patterns last week (I didn’t make the originals), it occurred to me to mention what some of what those corrections might be, because you -like this DE- shouldn’t have to pay for most of them. The original pattern maker should redigitize these corrections into the system at no additional cost to you. At the same time, I came up against a couple of grey areas. Pattern makers have their preferences. How do you know when something is an absolute, requiring correction, or a preference? That’s an area I’d like to explore later on.
Style 1001 was an elastic waist pull on pant, no pockets.
I’d been given the heads up that the contractor said the grainlines were off. They were. This contractor has a good eye, most people wouldn’t check for it (the pant didn’t have a horizontal stripe to match). As it happens, the pattern maker did an extra step that made it more obvious. Should I show you how to check those?
The thing that bugged me about these was the waist casing for the elastic. The elastic was 1.25″ wide (that’s why we need to know these details) but the notch to turn the casing was set at 1.25″. That may seem okay to you but what about an allowance to trim a bit off when serging that edge before hemming? What of “turn of cloth”? What of ease of elastic movement within the casing? What of varying stitching practices? For the latter items, the waistline casing needs to be 1/4 to 3/8 wider than your elastic. In my opinion.
- There weren’t any style numbers on each pattern piece. That can be deadly.
- The sketch sheet was a little off. There were solid black lines at the hem and waist. In a sketch, this looks like a separate piece. If it’s a stitching line (these were), the lines should not be solid but staccato.
- The waistline also took a drawstring (yet another reason to increase the size of the waist casing). The spec sheet specified a bias cut drawstring. Can you think of a reason that a drawstring should be cut on the bias? I can think of a couple of reasons of why it shouldn’t be (stability, grows in length, becomes narrower in diameter). Am I missing something?
Other things weren’t wrong, more a list of annoyances. Too many notches is always an annoyance. This particular pattern wasn’t bad but a sister style (1002) made from this same pattern, had them in spades. Weird.