Here’s the explanation of the pattern draft posed in yesterday’s pattern puzzle challenge.
Below is your basic front bodice with a pointy shawl collar. Usually shawl collars are round not pointy which is part of what led the confusion explained in this entry. The lines to cut the collar apart to create a fold line for the “second” collar are drawn in. The illustrations get better, sorry about this one.
By the way, I’ve created a pattern piece you can download (57kb), cut and fold up to try it yourself. In this second illustration, you can see I’ve cut along those lines and created an area of fullness that needs to be folded up to form the collar.
I’ll walk you through it step by step. Here the piece is cut out and the folds are made.
Below the “top collar” is folded. Just do the same things you see here.
Below the whole collar has been folded along the roll line laying the collar to rest on the body of the garment.
In the photo below, I’ve inked in the seam line of the collar layers. If you fold this up, it’ll be obvious where you need to join these pieces.
In this last photo, the collar has been curled around to form a back neck shape. Presto, one cool Crines collar!
Actually, this whole thing has one big issue. Technically, everything you see here is the facing. That’s right, the facing. On a shawl or revere collar, the top collar is really the facing. The thing is tho, you do all of this magic stuff working off the front of the body and then you cut it off to form the facing/top collar combination. On the body of the garment, the revers forms the underside of the collar. Therefore, you need to draft this in steps. You wouldn’t repeat these folds on the front of the garment as that would be the undercollar. So, once you’ve attained your desired collar shaping on the body of the garment, you need to trace that off to do the top collar and facing portion. How many of you noticed I drafted this collar on the body of the garment? I thought it would be less confusing to do it like this since you’d have a point of orientation with the body.
Also, because I saw the actual sample, there is one thing I would change about the design. If any of you ever intend to produce this, check in with me after you’ve made your first attempt. It’s kind of complicated to explain unless you have a proto for comparison.