Pattern Puzzle: Collar or tie?

most_awesome_collar How’s your day? Mine is definitely off kilter and I’m not focusing. I had to drive to El Paso this morning, the boy had an appointment and I needed to follow up on a lead for thread counter sales. Which I found by the way, courtesy of Atlas Sewing Supply. If you’re looking for small quantities of industrial thread locally, it’s at a place called La Mina, 1831 Texas St. Thread sales are only between 7:00-11:00 AM. He has boxes and boxes of the stuff, cheap. I tell you, it’s been hard to find things like this since we lost our A&E distributor. We also used to have a Sunbrand and a Universal but they’re long gone. At one time, there were more sewing machines in operation in El Paso TX than anywhere else on the planet. Seriously. Anyway, I have to go back this evening for our first ever meet up of industry people.

But on to the topic at hand, namely this collar, neckline, tie or whatever you choose to call it. I apologize for not remembering who sent me this, it was awhile ago, but isn’t this cool? I don’t even know which designer made it. I really need to keep better notes. Anyone care to guess how this was made? It doesn’t look very difficult but I’ve been wrong plenty of times before. It looks as though the tie end is actually sewn into place after feeding through the loop that holds it but I don’t think it is. How would she get it over her head? Oh wait, there could be a back zip. The tie end also looks doubled (softer) but the neckline edge off to the viewing left doesn’t look doubled although it has to be. It’s undoubtedly bias.

I can’t guess how you’d choose to make this but I would prefer to not have that tie end permanently stitched at the retaining loop. It would be more fun to pull it through the loop and arrange it. Anyone care to venture what this pattern looks like?

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  1. Leisa says:

    It is a separate bow that has been threaded through the loop and it is most probably secured at the back on the underside. I am not sure about the neckline of the dress but it looks like a peter pan collar with gathers sewn in to the neck area and hidden by the big bow so it looks like its all in one.

  2. Linda K says:

    It’s a beautiful top, and I’m waiting to learn from other contributors, but I keep seeing a bulky “end” coming under the loop from the viewing right, that sits on top of the soft collar going through the loop from the viewing left. (I hope that makes sense). What is this? If the collar is one piece and threaded through the loop, I think that this bulky end could have been devised better.

  3. penelopeelse says:

    I don’t know the answer, but thank you for the posting! This will be a perfect sample for a little ‘invent a collar from scraps’ competition in my community ‘wardrobe makeover’ course!

  4. aimee says:

    it looks like a two piece collar that wraps from wearer’s left front (under bow), around to back and then to wearer’s right front (kind of like a peter pan, but way more complicated), then looped through bow casing. the part of the bow that loops through casing and is doubled could simply be folded under and tacked inside the bow casing. 2 piece collar meaning it has a top collar and under collar, possibly understitched for that nice, neat construction and pointed right front collar edge. pattern could be stepped and clean finished for the extended part of bow that tucks under. width creates fullness at both sides. am i making sense? entire collar could be clean finished at inside neck maybe (with inside facing). would need a nice big piece of fabric, yes bias cut for that drape. something this nice wouldn’t be undone and redone on a daily basis. it would stay put. my best guess is that there is a hidden zip at wearer’s left side. love the pic. would love to see the collar pattern taken apart!
    thanks for posting, i love when you post those interesting pattern pieces (like the origami sleeve you saw in germany, awesome, had my brain confused). keep it coming.

  5. Sonia Levesque says:

    I would never attempt to replicate such a collar on paper from the get go. (!) I’d much prefer to start with a “col claudine” (your peter pan?) base and drape it on a mannequin. I’d start on a slightly “dégagé” neck line, as this is more cut out than a crew neckline… and use a piece of fabric on the biais that is at least 2 times that width, then work my way with the pleats. I’ll try it actually. I LOVE this effect on menswear fabric, and could be very “femme fatale” on a bigger scale; say, around the shoulders for a great 40’s jacket. No?

  6. Dia in MA says:

    The collar reminds me of those homemade scarves with the pull through sections. I believe the “bow” is a pull through swag that comes around from the back and goes into the tube to drape that way. The piece that comes around is not rectangular but shaped to give that effect. I have no drawing tools to draw the shape with.

  7. Mari-Ann says:

    This is one garment I would love to make up! Haven’t a clue how it could be accomplished
    but will keep the ‘thinking cap’ on.

  8. Brenda P says:

    Definitely bias or you wouldn’t have the soft folds. I would want a piece of silk organza as a interliner (interfacing?) I think it would help the scarf to fold more nicely and also to stay in place better when it goes over the right shoulder (her right, not ours). Those beautifully soft folds had to have a bit of help. Back zipper I would bet. Or the opening could be hid under her right shoulder (her right, not ours). I’d prefer the back zipper. It could have a tiny snap to take it over the back zipper and keep it in place. I think the neckline would be too small for a side zipper. I think the scarf is somewhat loose as it goes around the neck. Those soft folds would depend upon a good flat pressing to drape as nicely as it is doing. Under the neckline facing? Possibly. But if they did that or they attached it somehow at the front, why the big gathered piece? I really like it. It looks like a “scarf” that would not be fussy to wear but would stay in place nicely.

  9. Anne Casey says:

    It looks a lot like Marni – I’ve seen similar clothes produced by Veronika Maine. I doubt there is silk organza in the bow – the clothes I’ve seen mainly rely on stiff fabrics. I don’t think there’s a collar under there – I think the neckline stands away from the neck. I agree that there’s probably a back zip.

    I do love them, except you need to be fairly flat chested for it to flatter. Maybe I should try tweaking it to suit me.

    BTW, I’ve got a Veronika Maine unlined summer coat. I saw an identical coat in an expensive import store, made by Marni – absolutely identical, except my coat cost a tenth of the price, AND it was far better quality.

  10. Darla Ferranti says:

    I’d like to take a stab at this puzzle in 2013?
    Looks like her right side collar is sewn in from the back zip around the neckline to center front as one side of the A-Sym double faced collar that juts inward toward the face; then folds down: while her left side collar is sewn in from left back zip around to offset center front, with less collar width than the right, and also folds down with a loop tacked at that collars end.
    The end of the right side collar; patterned in an L shape, is pulled through the loop, end piece folded back and with an accordion fold at the end is slipped into the loop and over the top of the central bow draping inside the loop?

    If you find the best guesses please email a few when you get a chance….
    Miss you

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