Pattern Puzzle #22006 pt.2

We had winning responses from the 22006 pattern puzzle challenge.  Toni-Marie and Callum -who were probably doing it at the same time- came up with the winning answers. I’m guessing that nobody else needed to try it owing to their perfect results. Since the proof is in the proof, here is a front and back view of the dress:


There is also a slightly larger version of the same photo if you want to see that.

I made the original version a long time ago, like I said, while still in my fella-fetching days. More precisely, when I was still dating the now, Mr. Fashion-Incubator. I never had the nerve to wear something like this. Who knows, if I had, he may have popped the question sooner. But anyway, here is a photo of the original.


It was made out of some bridal something or other fabric that I use for linings. I cut 2 parts of the dress face up and 2 parts face down, to get a better visual on those lines. It is rather wrinkley because it was stuffed in a box from my last move. Martha found it, dragged it out and thought it was cute so I thought I’d rework it.  The dress looked awfully small so I wasn’t sure it would fit my form but it did, easily. Bias is so forgiving. The form is roughly a size 8; I made this to fit me and I was about a size 2 then so one size fits a larger spectrum of bodies than is typical.

Awhile back, I had posted a previous pattern puzzle and tutorial that used the same pattern manipulation concepts as the 22006 but it was for a child and had no need for waist suppression.  The 22006 was a bit more challenging as it was cut to be more form fitting. And that’s another thing. It seems that when most people cut a bias dress, there isn’t much in the way of shaping; they let the bias do their work for them. It is much more difficult to cut a bias dress with defined suppression and expansion but it makes for a better garment. Additionally, it will fit a still broader range of bodies.

But back to the 22006 version. As pictured (the image I opened with), it has a neckline ruffle. It didn’t come out like I wanted. At all. I wanted it to be fuller. I also made a rather lame error in that I didn’t supervise the construction as closely as I should have so it must be made again.

The fabric utilization will be fairly low for a bias dress. I love it when I can cut pieces on grain -as this one is- but the pieces are aligned to fall on the bias. In this way, you get the best of both worlds. It amounts to far less fabric use than your typical bias dress + very easy sewing since you’re not fighting bias edges but you still get all the benefits of a bias cut.

The roadblock to releasing this pattern for resale will be grading. I’ll keep you posted.

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  1. Toni-Maree says:

    The dress is so beautiful, simple and clever patternmaking. If you do grade it to larger sizes I would love to own one.

  2. Stacy Holt says:

    Its been a long time since I have posted a comment.
    I have to say that is quite the pattern!
    I love grading challenges, if you want help, let me know!
    Stacy Holt

  3. Taja says:

    Ooooh! I like!

    But I prefer the original version without the ruffle.

    The ruffled version would be cute on a child or a very tiny woman with a very small bust. That doesn’t describe me at this point in my life! *LOL*

  4. Leslie says:

    It is just a great dress. When you are ready to release the pattern, I’ll be first in line to get one. I originally thought of my granddaughter, but I may want to try it for myself too.

  5. Suzy says:


    It really is a beautiful pattern. If Leslie is first in line to purchase a pattern, I’ll be second. Keep us posted about any potential release. It really is stunning!

  6. Arizona says:

    I agree with everyone else…it’s such a beautiful dress. I’ll buy the pattern when it is released. Looks like that makes me 3rd in line. :)

  7. Sarah_H. says:

    A very attractive dress! Not what I could wear at my size and age, but very pretty! Back in the 80’s Carole Little did a half circle skirt composed of about 12″ squares that were cut and sewn on the straight, but hung in a bias spiral as your dress does. The squares of course were shaped at the edges of the skirt. It would be pretty easy to replicate (reverse engineer, knock off).

  8. Ana L. Molleda says:

    I’m a home sewist. I love this dress. I’ve not made one of your patterns before, but I am certainly intrigued with this one, and would love to know when you release it for sale.

  9. Mona says:

    I have been searching for an answer to a question: how do you prevent back gaping???? I can`t find an answer to that in any of the pattern books that I have. That dress fits perfect….. can you please write something about front and back neckline gaping. I mean how do you do it in the industry,I can make a muslin and correct everything for myself,but when it comes to manufacrting production how do you do that I wonder.

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