Materials test sample #17659
The cost of textile failure accounts for more than 5 billion dollars in losses each year (2003). Accordingly, you need to process your textiles regardless of fiber labeling to ensure quality performance. Shown is a processed denim sample, the finished dimensions are 18.5″ x 19.25″ (full size form).
The purpose the testing was to ensure the trim (bungee cord) weathered the processing well. The form was designed by the company for their typical use which appears to be gauging the quality of different types of washes that can be applied to denim. Unfortunately, it doesn’t appear that the weave itself was considered.
In the photo above, the grain torquing is evident and once constructed, the side seams of the pant legs will twist but no mention of the fabric defect is made on the form. One could hope a torque test had been done previously but if it had been, the fabric (and this sample) wouldn’t be in evidence. The best way to test for torquing is to sew the sample into a tube before it’s processed. No fewer than 5 people were involved in this test sample but everybody missed this detail. Similarly, the starting dimensions of the piece (pre-processing) does not appear but the lack of that information could mean the company has a conventional size they always cut; the size being a matter of in-house standardization. I’d recommend that DEs cut a piece 20″x20″ for fabric testing.
Materials Test Sample #17801
The sample below measures 19.25″ x 17.75″. This form is a bit different as it was generated during the product development phase (full size form).
The purpose was to test whether the button and ribbon trim will withstand the rigors of stonewashing and in this case, it appears that neither will be suitable. While this isn’t good news, it’s better to know before one has cut 10,000 units, sewed them and then processed them. This sample doesn’t appear to be torqued but this doesn’t mean the piece goods pass inspection. I’d be concerned about the seam failure shown below.
Most of the time, all you have to do to test your textiles is to wash and dry them. If the final product will be labeled “dry clean only”, then you need to dry clean a sample that has whatever buttons and trim you plan to use, attached to the piece. If your buttons melt into the piece goods during dry cleaning, don’t you think it’s better to know that before you cut/sew your product line? One can only hope so.