Continuing in the process review series of the faulty zipper insertion, I’ve finished drafting and sewing the correction for the lapped zipper application. The sample pattern uses a 7″ plastic coil. By the way, this pattern won’t work for separating zippers because those are different.
Before you can sew this up, you’ll need to download the pdf pattern templates. Print these out full size; they should fit neatly on an 8.5 x 11 sheet of paper (you’ll need 3 sheets). Later today you’ll find the step by step sewing instructions once I finish editing the photos. For now, prepare your pattern.
You’ll need 2 file folders. Cut the folders apart on the fold lines and staple the pattern template print outs to them. By the way, file folders are made of what’s called “oak tag” paper, aka traditional pattern paper. It’s designed to be thin yet hold a hard edge. Poster board is inferior because it’s thicker and doesn’t hold a firm edge. You can buy pattern paper by the roll (48″ wide, 6″ diameter) from SouthStar Supply
I don’t want to launch into any kind of soap-box rant at this hour of the morning so humor me and cut all lines away. Always. No exceptions, ever. I’m always, always stunned at the number of people who’ve spent 4 years in a design school program who don’t know something I learned my very first day in design school and that’s all I’m going to say about it ;).
Once you’ve cut the pieces out, mark them according to the print out in black ink. Industrial patterns are color-coded. Shell/self pieces are always marked in black ink. Be sure to mark the correct side. You’ll need to notch the left back so if you don’t have a notcher (I recommend item no. 45N1/16), trim that out. Similarly, at the zipper bottom you’ll need to punch out a small hole. If you don’t have a screw punch you can get one at Southstar (same page as the notcher). The screw punch is my absolute favorite pattern tool. Hardly anyone has them so be the first among your friends to get one and hide it from the kids or grandkids ’cause you’ll never find it again (don’t ask how I know that). If you don’t have a screw punch, use a common nail. Then you’ll be ready to sew your own sample.
Process review: lapped zipper
Lapped zipper template
Lapped zipper construction
Lapped zipper specs
Centered zipper template
Centered zipper construction
Invisible zipper tutorial pt.1
Invisible zipper tutorial pt.2
Shorten a separating zipper
Zippered welt pocket tutorial
Deconstructing a zippered pouch
Zippered welt pockets