Ruth reminds me to remind you about the group buy of Japanese pattern books. Let’s set a deadline for this, oh, next Friday the 4th of January. Teijo has graciously agreed to facilitate this so we can reduce our shipping costs which are quite high, often more than the cost of the book for single titles.
Other than the one listed above, here is a list of books that may interest you. Pick from these or add others you know about (include the link from Amazon JP or YesAsia). I’ll definitely be getting the Vionnet one. It’d be a big help if you could do your own math calculating the total (less shipping for now) and figure the exchange rate. Please put “group buy” in the subject line of your email if you don’t use this link to email me and I’ll send you a paypal invoice or you can reimburse me by phone with visa/mc. Include your shipping address and phone number.
Here’s some tantalyzing details from the newest Pattern Magic, vol 2 (illustrated above, also see Pattern Magic if you don’t have the first one). PM2 has a few exercises, nothing new, to illustrate some of the concepts. Below is a simple exercise, I think you can follow it easily. Or maybe not. There are no English translations. Somebody wrote me asking for those. I don’t anticipate learning Japanese anytime soon.
Here’s the sample concept:
Below is the sample draft of the concept (your basic cowl). Unstated (in English anyway) is that the author is only working with half the draft. Is this clear? There’s no measures for the amount to spread; it’s one of those things you eyeball (the art component of drafting).
Below is a suggested use of the concept, followed by the needed draft to obtain the effect. The draft of design B is illustrated. For the inner cowling effect (A), you’d flatten the tail (tie end) of that spread as in the concept example shown above this one.
I thought this top was very lovely and sedate (below):
Before I forget, you can see many more samples from the book here.
I thought several of the drafts were very interesting. Here’s a pocket detail (below). Not really a pocket, more of a mock pocket but if you stuck a pocket bag in there, you’d have a real one. I think these design effects would be more apparent if the samples had been done in color blocks but then, the muslin works in these photographs from an artsy standpoint.
You can’t tell from the photo above (I don’t know why the scan came out so badly) but there’s a little pooch at the bottom left of the design detail, it’s not ideal. This is owing to a dart being “created” in that draft you see above. The way you’d get around this would be to use a darted block and rotate the dart into usable space to create this effect. That’d be the cleaner way to do it. That pocket wouldn’t necessarily have to be over boob central, not if you rotated it into a horizontal position from the CF line and shortened it a tad. Dart lines don’t need to be straight continuous lines, just joined ones. Maybe I’m all wet. I’ll have to play with this one.