Introducing my new retail pattern line!

Yay! After saying for ages that I’d start a retail pattern line, I finally have. It’s called Savant Patterns. This is the logo that Jasonda did for me. I still owe her money for it now that I think about it. She didn’t bill me because she was late but still, decorum dictates. She has done several jobs for me, I just can’t say enough about her work.
I’ve only launched with one style so far, it has been a stealth launch of sorts. official_launch_bomber_jacketYou can read more about it here. At right is the image of the jacket I sewed to create the instructions. It is cowboy sized so you might go down one size. Here is a rough sizing chart based on actual pattern measurements:

XS chest 46″
S chest 48″
M chest 50″
L chest 52″
XL chest 54″

My husband wears a medium. He is 5’10”, 185lbs, with a 42″ chest if that helps. This will fit a guy up to 6 ft tall with no height adjustments needed. It would also be great for a taller female with a larger bone structure. It is suited for a heavier coat weight fabric and quilted lining. With all the thicknesses (and to allow for a layered sweater underneath), you should select a size that is a minimum of 6″ to 8″ inches greater than actual chest measure.

The instructions come as a pdf file and are a separate purchase and download ($5.99). The reason is that the pattern itself is a physical item and Etsy doesn’t yet facilitate downloads for those items. The file is 59 pages long and has … sheesh (I forgot to count) well over 60 detailed photos and several diagrams. It has been photographed step by step. The jacket at right won’t win any design prizes but the light colors facilitated photography. It was also sewn in pink and purple thread for the same reason.

There is also a tall version, Style #12602. Whether regular or tall, the cost is $24.00 for the pattern.

For manufacturing:
As I mentioned previously, one can buy the pattern for manufacturing purposes. The cost is $30 per size times 5 sizes ($149.99 actually) with no royalties or anything else. For this price, you get a plot of five sizes and also, instructions. If you think you might be interested in this, I recommend buying one size to try it out first. I will deduct the cost of the purchase if you go this route later on.

You can also get this pattern on oaktag if you prefer. The cost is $30 per hour labor and one size would take about 2 hours, give or take. You can also have it modified to suit at a cost of $75 an hour. To select this option, inquire within.

The last option is to buy the CAD file for all sizes, instructions included. The fee is $249.99. With this option, customization is also possible at a cost of $75 per hour labor. Again, if you think you might be interested in this, I recommend buying one size to try it out first. I will deduct the cost of the purchase if you decide on this option later.

In sum:
No this isn’t the latest and greatest to hit the runways but it’s a solid and serviceable style to be used for years; a classic. It’s also a good bet for a launch when you need to control for as much as possible, you know, all the payment and customer service stuff. Also, I’m testing the format for instructions. I have not seen anything else out there like this. The pattern itself is a known quantity; I have made so many that I swear I could do them in my sleep; these and sport coats so the latter will probably be next. After I get the kinks worked out of the system (and have a dedicated page set up), I’ll probably do more fun items. None of them common or easy. Easy doesn’t inspire me unless it has some kind of twist to it.

I plan to create a separate forum for users to compare notes. Another element I’ve started is a bug list. So far—knock on wood—I’ve found them all rather than users and notified or issued corrections as needed. I plan to make this transparent as possible. In fact, here is an Excel spreadsheet thus far (buyer’s names redacted). There are a lot of little twists to these; for example, I’m issuing a plot map for each pattern (see this sample). This will make it easier for you to locate a given piece within the pattern you receive.

Questions? Comments? I await feedback with bated breath. But now I have to rush off and make dinner for my husband (leftovers, poor guy). Happy New Year!

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  1. Deana says:

    Congratulations! This looks like a great product, with your thorough and professional eye for detail. Best of luck with the line,

  2. Kathleen says:

    Hi Bill, in reference to your comment, I updated the entry.

    The listed measures are of the pattern itself. IMO there should be a 6-8″ difference btwn your chest and pattern measure for this particular style. It allows for a heavy coat weight wool (18-20 oz) and a quilted lining. A suit weight is much thinner and skims the body (I specialize in suits). My husband is a 41 and I made him a medium. Imo, an XS for a 42″ chest would be too small.

    It is possible that the XS would be okay for a light, crisp spring weight windbreaker but we would create a separate pattern for that type of silhouette and weight because RTW patterns are more tightly targeted to fabric type. By the same token, if the lightweight jacket were cut out of a drapey rayon (more common 20 years ago) as opposed to something crisp, this jacket type would have more fullness, similar to the heavyweight winter coat and again, you should buy your regular size -which would be, imo, the medium.

  3. Sarah says:

    I’m very excited by this! I’m not sure if I will get this pattern — I just asked DH if he would wear it and got a horrified look in response (it’s a bit too casual for him, alas) — but I might end up getting it anyway just for the experience sewing it, and I’m definitely looking forward to what other patterns you will produce!

    (And I don’t at all mean to try and push you in one direction or another, but — I would be beyond thrilled if you ever put out a woman’s suit jacket!)

  4. Bill Jones says:

    Thank you, Kathleen!
    I wondered about the ease.
    The fabric I’ll use is actually a medium sweater weight that I machine knitted of black and charcoal cashmere yarn.

  5. RB says:

    I was SEW excited when I first read this and excited for you! Looking forward to more in you collection especially for MENSWEAR! I have SEW many guys who want garments made and could use your expertise! You SEW girl!

  6. Theresa in Tucson says:

    Wonderful news, Kathleen. I keep saying I’m going to get the pattern for DS and DH but have not done so. I will as soon as I get the offspring measured. He and DH just got fitted for tuxes for Knights of Columbus functions so I will get those measurements and contact you.

    One type pattern that would really be neat to see would be a man’s motorcycle jacket with the gusseted back. The youngest brother rides and his jacket is way too short in the body for him. He’s 6’3″ and like most of the family, long-bodied.

    Again, congratulations and I hear you about doing what scares you.

  7. Silvia says:

    This is very exciting Kathleen. I really welcome a pattern line from a professional like you. I don’t really sew menswear so I hope you will also design women’s patterns. I would love that.

  8. Taja says:

    Congratulations on the launch, Kathleen!

    Not currently sewing for any of the gentlemen in my life, but I’ll keep this in mind. My cousin’s DH is difficult to fit (long and lanky with broad shoulders), so it could be in my future!

  9. chris says:

    Great news Kathleen – although I don’t yet have use for your first pattern – I’m really looking forward to seeing you realise more patterns. I know they will be well worth owning :)

  10. Hello Katherine,

    Congratulations! You have a lot of work ahead of you. We launched a very similar website last January so that customers could have access to industry standard patterns, the basic styles, leaving them more time and money for the more detailed patterns.

    We have a business called Sample Room in Melboure, Australia where we work with designers in a similar way to your business. I am always recommending your book.

    I have found the hardest thing about our Website is how to show the fit of the garments. We are still perfecting this part. I look forward to seeing what you come up with. With over 60 men’s and women’s patterns I feel for what you about to embark on.

    Good luck

  11. Brunella B Rosser says:


    Oh my goodness, you did it… I really like the jacket.
    Congratulations, and best wishes for a hugely successful line of patterns.

    I’m looking forward to seeing and shopping your complete line.

  12. Leigh says:

    Congratulations!!! That’s awesome!

    May I suggest that when displaying garments on bodies, it would be GREAT to know what size of the pattern was used, and what the size of the model is. I knit a lot, and it is wonderful to look at a sample and know that the 38″ was made, and the model wearing it is a 39″ (with 1″ negative ease.) It is very helpful.

    Looking forward to seeing more!

  13. Kathleen says:

    I give the same advice ad nauseum. In the links in this post, I’ve included that information when showing the jacket on my husband and in this post as well.

  14. Lauren Forney says:

    Congrats, Kathleen! Just in time for the new year. I was wondering how you will decide what patterns to put into your line next? :)

  15. Anita McAdam says:

    thanks so much for sharing your process. I am currently setting up some block and pattern downloads for my own site and your posts have been so helpful. Love the review on etsy about your instructions. Too true that detailed instructions are ‘The Thing’ to focus on for patterns and blocks whether they are hardcopy or download. Hope your store goes gangbusters for you! :)

  16. Theresa in Tucson says:

    Okay, just sent my order off through the ether. Looking forward to taking a look at the instructions. I’m going to start with a jacket for DH first as the offspring has appropriated the old man’s. Hopefully I will get it done while we still have cool weather for it but if not, then I’ve got Christmas covered.

  17. Ina says:

    Reading and catching up. Congrats on the pattern line!!

    I think I would need the tall for my husband. He is 6’5″ about 260; 52/54″ chest with very broad shoulders. I look forward to owning some of your basics. Most of my clients like the basics with a twist so they can add their own personality to their garments.
    Clothes, like life, should be fun, comfortable, and not so serious.

    Can’t wait to see the rest!!

  18. I’m on trend? That’s a shock.
    Somebody mentioned earlier that bombers are coming back in style. Maybe I should make sizing the women’s bomber more of a priority. Currently I’m working on a more classically styled lady’s jacket. I didn’t think women were interested in a bomber for themselves so I put it on the back burner.

  19. Anita McAdam says:

    Yes indeed Bombers are a very strong trend. They feature a lot in my trend blog on tumbler. Interesting treatment with contrast jersey/rib sleeves, rich prints and great trim. I would get the women’s pattern out there asap. Good for individual sewers and industry. :)

  20. I am looking forward to seeing your great instructions and photos. The plot map is gorgeous. It was good to see the Excel sheet on corrections since we are currently working on that in our advanced courses. Your selling format is a valuable tool, too. I know our best students read your blog so they may get the tips included. I am going to speak to Walter to determine if one of your patterns could be built into a class. If so, how would that work for repeat use at a school?

    Launch on!!

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