If you thought I’d departed permanently, no such luck. As you may recall, I’ve been away, training with my new CAD system StyleCAD (I like it a lot). That session finished Tuesday evening. Since then I’ve been catching up and practicing my skills -such as they are- on various styles. One of which is the aforementioned sport coat project.
If you recall, I’d written an entry about how to reshape armholes. Reshaping armholes is the first step to a nice fitting sleeve. It is only once the armhole is shaped to fit a human body and the normal range of motion (see pgs 166-168 of my book), that the sleeve can be reshaped -because as I’ve mentioned, sleeve cap ease is bogus. The latter amounts to a work around to compensate for a poorly designed sleeve and armhole. Truthfully, well designed sleeves are difficult so I can understand why they’re given short thrift particularly in value priced lines. In suits and coats though, it becomes more critical regardless of price point.
In the forum I updated the ongoing thread with a screen capture of the new armhole design. A picture of the result -courtesy of my new software (doesn’t this look so much cleaner?)- appears below. There is also a slightly larger version of the image.
I will begin attempting to document the redesign of the sleeve to remove unnecessary ease as best as I can. Unfortunately, sleeve design can be something of an art in that it is an accumulation of experience and refined eye which is a round about way of saying I lack the means to articulate what needs to be done. Wish me luck!