In response to the first post in this series (Fusing map: Sport coats and suits) Ela writes:
I’m about to dive into my first menswear garment sewing project: making a jacket for my boyfriend. From what I understood, Kathleen, your fusible map is for lined jackets. So my question is… How would a fusible map look on an unlined jacket? I suppose even an unlined jacket (mine will be the casual, informal, destructured kind) must be interfaced in some areas… I’m just really wondering WHERE. Thanks so much in advance.
P.S. The fabric will be wool,, heavier than normal suiting but lighter than the “blanket-y” one.
You don’t mention whether the jacket takes a zipper or buttons but it doesn’t really matter because the closure area needs reinforcement because it takes a lot of wear.
Below I’ve shown a fusing map for an unlined casual jacket with welt pockets. If you don’t want the fusing showing for the pocket, substitute a layer of self/shell fabric instead. The welt itself can be fused because it won’t show once it’s made up. You can click on the illustration (or here) for a larger version of the image.
The only additional comment I would make is that to be sure to cut 2 welt fusibles per pocket. One is for the welt itself and the other for the shell. If this welt pattern looks a bit strange to you, see the welt pocket tutorial.
Personally, I prefer an additional bit of fusing along the center front of the jacket itself where the zipper sews in (or buttons if you prefer). It will keep the seam stable as you sew in the (usually heavier weight) zipper. It will also be covered by the facing. An image of this version is here. The fusible doesn’t need to be very wide, about an inch or so.