Fusing Map: Unlined Jacket

In response to the first post in this series (Fusing map: Sport coats and suits) Ela writes:

I’m about to dive into my first menswear garment sewing project: making a jacket for my boyfriend. From what I understood, Kathleen, your fusible map is for lined jackets. So my question is… How would a fusible map look on an unlined jacket? I suppose even an unlined jacket (mine will be the casual, informal, destructured kind) must be interfaced in some areas… I’m just really wondering WHERE. Thanks so much in advance.

P.S. The fabric will be wool,, heavier than normal suiting but lighter than the “blanket-y” one.

You don’t mention whether the jacket takes a zipper or buttons but it doesn’t really matter because the closure area needs reinforcement because it takes a lot of wear.

Below I’ve shown a fusing map for an unlined casual jacket with welt pockets. If you don’t want the fusing showing for the pocket, substitute a layer of self/shell fabric instead. The welt itself can be fused because it won’t show once it’s made up. You can click on the illustration (or here) for a larger version of the image. 


The only additional comment I would make is that to be sure to cut 2 welt fusibles per pocket. One is for the welt itself and the other for the shell. If this welt pattern looks a bit strange to you, see the welt pocket tutorial.

Personally, I prefer an additional bit of fusing along the center front of the jacket itself where the zipper sews in (or buttons if you prefer). It will keep the seam stable as you sew in the (usually heavier weight) zipper. It will also be covered by the facing. An image of this version is here. The fusible doesn’t need to be very wide, about an inch or so.

On reviewing pattern books
Interfacing: 10 tips
How to apply interfacing
Fusing map: Sport coats and suits

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  1. Theresa Riess says:

    We are vacationing in Houston and made a trip yesterday, to the downtown fabric store. I found a wonderful print twill suitable for a casual zip up vest. This is perfect for what I want to do for the offspring, plus put in two inside zip pockets. Thanks, Kathleen.

    Theresa in Tucson

  2. Dara says:

    I really enjoyed seeing this. Worked with various forms of interfacing, but rarely fusing. I know this is a off-topic, but I would love a post on selecting good fusing that doesn’t bubble or ripple as the glue warps over time.

  3. Ela says:

    Thanks so much Kathleen! This post is really helping me! Indeed I didn’t specify the closure but it will definitely consist of buttons. Can’t wait to put the fusing map into practice (fabric & interfacing shopping on Monday). Wish me luck!

  4. Ela says:

    One more question (ok, two) occurred to me yesterday as I was “reading” the fusing map for the unlined jacket: is there no fusing at all on the back/sleeves? What about the concept of fusing all hems (read it in other posts/comments on your blog)?
    Thanks so much, again!

  5. Hi Ela, every style is different. This particular one I showed actually has a knit rib waistband so there wouldn’t be any fusible. But you’re right. If this were a traditional hem or had a hem facing, it absolutely would get a bit of interfacing.

    As far as fusing sleeves, the same applies to the hem -the style I showed was for sleeves with a rib knit cuff.

    For some reason, fusible in sleeve caps has become popular or trendy. I don’t know why that is or where it started. I don’t think it is a bad thing but again, it is a case by case basis. I have never done this but could see doing it in a heavier coat.

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