If you’d like to follow along with the centered zipper sewing exercise, you can download the pattern here. The sewing demonstration is soon to follow.
By the way, I didn’t make a new pattern for this so you may not need one either if you cut the patterns for the lapped zipper. Specifically, the pattern pieces you’ll need from the first exercise are the right back and the left neck facing. Funny how these things work out, no? The more you look, the less it’ll seem a coincidental thing and more like an engineered one. Lastly, this refers to dressweight plastic coil zippers only. Outerwear zippers are different but regardless, there is a standard for each kind of zipper in each given insertion application.
Option:
You can use a basic home sewing pattern for this exercise if you’d prefer. The first thing is to trim the neckline seam allowance to only 1/4″. Then, reduce the CB seam allowance to 1/2″ and remove all seam allowance on the facing at the CB edge. The length of your zipper inset area is the same as before -in other words- a 7″ zipper takes 7″ plus 1.5″ for set down and finishing requirements. The 1.5″ measure will never vary, only the length of the given zipper will.
Related:
Process review: lapped zipper
Lapped zipper template
Lapped zipper construction
Lapped zipper specs
Centered zipper template
Centered zipper construction
Invisible zipper tutorial pt.1
Invisible zipper tutorial pt.2
Shorten a separating zipper
Zippered welt pocket tutorial
Deconstructing a zippered pouch
Zippered welt pockets
Invisible zipper tutorial pt.1
Owing to the generous contribution of one of our readers, Jinjer from the bay area, I’m pleased to include the following invisible zipper tutorial. As Jinjer makes frequent reference to it, you may want to review my centered zipper tutorial…
I can’t wait to try this. I’ve been home sewing for about a year and I’ve always been disappointed with my zips. On your option to adjust a home sewing pattern – do we also need to adjust to include the overhang on the centre back edge down to the dot like in your template? All my patterns have usually had one long straight CB edge. If so is the overhang 0.5cm longer than below the dot? Also whereabouts in relation to the bottom of the zip itself is your dot?
I did the tutorial on your template pieces today and it’s come out brilliantly. Thank you so much for uploading. I have followed other similar tutorials but using your slightly short facing pieces I now realise I have always been folding it back wrong. I always wondered why the tops of my zips looked wrong.
Your tutorials are great. Perfectly logical and well-explained. Oh, how I appreciate logic. Thanks for taking the time to post them.