Welt pocket construction

Picking up where I left off yesterday, sew both folds into place with 1/4″ seam allowance, starting and stopping exactly (that’s critical) at the ending chalked lines.

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Here you can see one side is done:

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Now both sides are done

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This is the view from the back. Both lines should be perfectly parallel. Look closely, one of my lines is too short:

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It’s more obvious here. If you make this mistake, just restitch it till it meets that chalkline.

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My corrected sample is shown here

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Now cut the center slit. Remember to leave about 3/4″ uncut in the corners.

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You’ll need to cut a Y into each corner. Get close -very close- to the stitching in the corner. I like to use homesewing applique scissors for this part. The scissors are very sharp with fine points.

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Turn the pocket.

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The pocket is turned. This looks pretty clean if you notice. Not bad for something that’s not even pressed.

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And here it looks from top-side, also unpressed.

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If I had one “tip” to show you, it’d be this one. Press that seam open. Yes, it’ll end up layered together anyway but this gives a nice clean line to the topside.

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This is mine with the final pressing from the top-side

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Your pocket should look like this from the back at this stage. See how crisp the welt lips are on the ends?

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Now you want to sew up those triangles on each end.When you pressed this pocket, you created a faint line at the base of that triangle. Use that as your sewing line. Don’t worry about getting too close because you can pull the threads. The usual problem is people are too far away.

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Here is the pocket sewn off. If you notice, the stitching is perfectly aligned with those first chalk marks I’d made.

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And here’s another view of the triangle sewn off.

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And here’s the completed view from the back

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And a final view of the front. See, it’s easy once it’s pre-pressed with that embarrassingly low-tech paper jig.
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Oh, and for those of you so inclined to hit that “Donations” button you see right up there underneath the search box, up there in the top of the right hand column? I’d be ever so grateful; it’s much appreciated and I have a long memory of who donates and who doesn’t and who asks the most questions versus those who don’t ;-)…

And now I’m off to the Solar Festival in Taos…….have a great weekend!

Entries in this series (links open in a new window):
Zippered welt pockets
Welt-Reece machine operations
Marking & Cutting
Welt and paper jig
Welt pocket construction

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57 Comments on "Welt pocket construction"


Lisa B
7 days 16 minutes ago

If you want your welts to be finished 1/2 each how wide do you make your paper jigs? I have been reading all of the welt pocket tutorials and I have worked thru the jig tutorial and will sew it up but when I looked at the finishing of the welt pocket it looks like the welts are two separate pieces. Is this a different techniques than what you showed in the tutorials? I am getting confused

Kathleen
6 days 9 hours ago

We don’t want the welts to 1/2″ wide but 1/4″. Total pocket width is 1/2″.

I realize the finishing looks like 2 separate pieces but it is not. Sometimes, it can be helpful to suspend disbelief to try something without wholly understanding the logic behind it. I recommend that approach. Just go with the flow, relax, do it step by step. What will it cost you? Half an hour and a scrap of muslin? I think you’ll be pleased.

[…] VERY Helpful links: Adding a fly zipper Sewing single welt pocket Sewing double welt pocket […]

Anne Elliot
9 months 25 days ago

Misty is so right! Couldn’t say it better myself. The things I am learning!! Tonight that included how to convert the precise measurements to metric :). I really get the relationship between welt stitch width and welts meeting from the comments!

Misty
10 months 9 days ago

I can’t even begin to tell you how appreciative I am of your consistency and attention to detail. You are a rare gem, and an immense help!

Kathleen
1 year 2 months ago

Yes it is possible to unpick and re-stitch. Don’t ask me how I know .