Tutorial: Finishing the welt pocket

finished_pocket_bag1Rather late in the game, I’m adding another tutorial to the welt pocket series (links at close). It did not occur to me that one would need specific instructions but I was obviously wrong. Not the first time and certainly not the last.

I took several photos of the process but they seem difficult to follow. That is my opinion, you may find them perfectly clear. In the interests of clarity, I created illustrations too. If you’d like to compare, I uploaded the photos and am posting the illustrations below. Perhaps between the two, the process will be clear.

The below presumes you’ve completed the first part of the welt pocket and only need to attach the under welt and pocket bag. If you lack patterns for the under welt and pocket bag, here are some suggestions:

The welt pattern pieces should extend 1″ beyond the width of your desired pocket size on each side. Meaning, the welts of a finished 6″ pocket will be 8″ wide. [More specific pattern and construction details are found by following the links at close.] The top welt is 3″ long. The under welt is 1/2″ shorter than the top welt or 2 1/2″ long.

The pocket bag pattern length is twice the desired pocket depth. If you want a pocket bag that is 6″ deep, cut your pattern 12″ long. It should be the same width as the welts. For the purposes of illustration, my under welt is 2.5″ long and 8″ wide. The pocket bag is 8″ wide and 12″ long.

The first step is to join the under welt to the pocket bag. This is illustrated in #2 and #3 below.


The next step is to join the top edge of the under welt to the back of the welt pocket (#4 below).


In step 5 above, join the pocket bag to the lower edge of the welt pocket.

In step 6, also above, you close off the sides of the pocket bag, catching all layers.

Do let me know if this answered your questions. If not, I can elaborate as needed. Again I remind you that there are photos of the process if these illustrations aren’t clear. Happy sewing!

Welt-Reece machine operations
Marking & Cutting
Welt and paper jig
Welt pocket construction

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