Stump the chump: pattern puzzle #1 pt.2

Yay I win! Or I mostly do. Sorry, I’m excited. This comes in response to yesterday’s challenge presented by Traci in which she gave me a pattern and had me figure it out. Nobody was supposed to help me with it, that’s the point of stump the chump. Next time someone sends me a challenge, I’ll have to work on it in secret and only once I have the solution (or whatever I come up) will I post it for you all to play along, after which I’ll post mine and everybody else’s.

Okay, so this is what I came up with:


There are more photos of the garment laid flat, I only sewed one half of it in case I totally messed it up and needed another side as a re-do.

The pattern presented some interesting challenges. Like most of you I figured out this was probably a dolman sleeve with a front extension cum roll collar. What took a bit of fiddling was how to fit in the gusset (that took the longest, mostly because I’m not used to sewing these in with such large seam allowances). The other quandary was the neckline. The first time I sewed it, I sewed the piquete (pointy thing) into a dart. I didn’t like that so I made it into a tuck. I didn’t like how that looked either so I experimented a bit more until I figured that one out too.

For everyone following along, here’s an explanation of the pattern:


Hopefully it is clear how the gusset sews in. It doesn’t look like it matches well but part of that is due to big honking seam allowance and also, that the quarter scale I was working with, wasn’t exact.

The front portion and the sewing of the neckline is below:


stump_the_chump_mockup_neck_flatAs I already mentioned, the pointy part of the neckline was a challenge. I cannot imagine how the home sewing pattern instructions read (I did check the spoilers before I posted so I know where this style comes from) but that pointy thing is actually a built in or “grown on” gusset. I showed with color coding in the above image how it is to be joined. At right is a photo of the inside neck of the muslin.

I’m wondering if the home pattern version did this as a tuck because sewing it as a grown on gusset is a bit tricky (again, the joining of seams is shown at right above). I’ll bet the original style made by the designer did it this way. I do have to say it was terribly clever of the designer to have engineered it like this.

So, how many of you also figured this out without the benefit of spoilers?

So who is next to present me with a stump the chump challenge? The floor is open.

There are 14 comments Leave a comment

Leave a comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *