Pop Quiz: Pt.1 of a 2 part argument pt.2

The answer to yesterday’s pop quiz is the collar in question is a shawl collar. Sarah was first out of the chute with first and first correct answer. I think some may have been confused by her comments so I’ll explain. She wrote:

I would call this a wing collar, although technically it is a form of shawl collar…

I know what she meant but I think some were confused. Revere (wing) and shawl collars are drafted as one piece with the body of the garment using the revers. Rever is an archaic word used to describe the front lapel area of a jacket, coat or blouse. Imagine the roll line of a jacket. The area that lies between the roll line extending to the front edge, is called the revers.

Now, the only difference between a shawl and revere collar is whether the collar portion extends to meet at the center back neck. A shawl collar does roll and curl around to meet at center back and form a collar seam. A revere collar does not, it lies flat. Again, a wing collar is a form of revere collar and lies flat. Here’s an example.

Now this is a small wing collar on a man’s formal dress shirt but these can be in various sizes and lengths. The wing portion of this collar does not extend around the back of the neck to form a roll. In the shirt above, it is the collar stand (cut separate from the wing) that goes around the neck. Remember, the definition of a revere and shawl is that they are cut as one piece with the body of the garment. If it’s got a collar stand, that is a separate piece and as such is technically neither a revere nor shawl collar. Technically speaking, this shirt is best described as having “wing tips” rather than it really being a wing collar because of the separate collar stand. No pattern maker will quibble with you over this distinction on a shirt like this though. They’ll know what you mean.

Again, the difference between a revere and a shawl collar is that a shawl collar extends beyond the front, around the neck and down the other side. In other words, the lapels of each side are joined in a center back seam. The lapels of a revere collar lie flat and are not joined. Both are cut as one with the body of the garment (illustrations in the next entry).

In summary, the collar in the pop quiz, although it was shaped similar to a wing collar, is easily a shawl collar because the collar is obviously extending around the back of the neck. The proper term and distinction will matter to a pattern maker and will affect the intended result.

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