Pattern puzzle: collar 2

Last month, I’d posted the latest pattern puzzle; a collar on a blouse designed by Nikoline Liv Andersen. Here’s the image to refresh your memory.

Two of the responses to the challenge were from Kaaren Hoback who said only in part (snipped appreciably):

I made a trial of a dozen 5″ circles in carriff ( light weight non woven I used for fiddlin’ around)and created a very similar effect… I believe they may be 7 or 8 circles deep- that means a minimum of about 35-48 for the neckline- whew!

Being the consummate professional that I am, I responded, “Okay smarty pants, any idea as to allocation”? To which she responded with this entry that I’d meant to post a long time ago. Fun fun fun! Kaaren explains below.


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Disclaimer: Guessing of course! By allocation I am presuming you mean how many circles and where.

The “fabric/non woven” I was playing with is lighter than a batiste and my circles were 5″ diameter which I think is an OK size for the neck, the cuffs might be 4 or 4.5 inches.the peplum may actually be larger at 6 or greater.

Shoulders – circle centers are slightly offset from the shoulder ridge riding a little towards the back 7 or 8 layers deep(had trouble counting them even after bringing into PSP and zooming in. These circles for shoulders, neck and peplum have a small tuck at midline of the fold to give that cartridge pleat, release tuck effect.The stacks are pretty much on top of each other with a very slight offset- maybe an 1/8th inch.

Neckline – this appeared to be 8 deep per side layered from the bottom which “could” be a jabot but I think was more like a separate collar extending all around the neck as the base. The stacks have a slightly greater offset one on top of the next alternating east to west maybe as much as 1/4 inch. Back neck could be 2 stacks of similar size or 1 stack of larger circles with a much deeper pinch tuck.(no photo)

The cuffs using this plan almost have to be stitched to a band- with enough of the band depth to stitch directly to the wrist finish, the finished circles are folded in half, then in half again and then stitched “on point” to use a quilting term cause I don’t have a clue what it would be called in industry terms. The cuff circles are folded twice with NO tuck at center.

Peplum: I think I counted 14 circles per half front-that’s roughly 56 circles. Without a sample of the fabric weight and hand it would be pure guess work how many circles would “fill” the required spaced, but lets presume a 10″ finished wrist – the set I’ve used is 3/8th inch centered at each point- that would mean – that’s approx. 26 circles per cuff. I can’t come close to answering accurately. I think I counted 14 circles per half front-that’s roughly 56 circles.

Final count – a rough total of 154 circles.

Here’s some photos of the process to see how I came up with this Guesstimate:




I outlined the “point” with pencil- to help show the “set” . I think in a cotton shirting/broadcloth weight fabric it could be as much as less than half as many circles as a batiste to fill the cuff out.
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Has anyone else been tempted to play with this? For me, looking at the original design was sufficient because it was too much for me to get into at the moment. Should the effect become necessary at some point in the future, I can always come back to this. As may you.

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