In response to the exorbitant pricing I reported yesterday, I’ve become more proactive in collecting resources to whom I can refer you. Please note there is a section on the resources page for pattern services. I sent out a bid solicitation letter requesting a bid for grading. My request read:
I would appreciate it if you could provide a grading quote for the following:
A man’s shirt, 2″ grade, sizes SMLXL
The piece inventory:
With no match points, allocation or anything like that. In simplest terms, what is your minimum charge for grading per size?
Thus far, I’ve had 4 responses (I sent it late Friday afternoon). I’ve reviewed the sites, policies and pricing of the following companies and can freely recommend them to you. You will also note that quite a few pattern makers hire other pattern makers for grading or overflow. Two pattern makers in this sampling use Stephen Singer in NY (profiled yesterday). Another thing I look for is the kind of software and hardware they use. A company with a 36″ plotter and home-sewing CAD is not what you want because other than professional quality service and industry prices, you will also need to have markers made. As you visit these sites, you’ll note the offered services are quite comprehensive. The responses follow:
Anyway, this is what one service wrote:
I charge by the major pattern piece, i.e. front, back, yoke, sleeve, etc.and the number of sizes. Needless to say, the more pieces and sizes the higher the charge. For the example you gave that would be only 4 pieces, the front, back, sleeve and collar. If I were making the first pattern it would be $30.00 a piece to make the pattern and $15.00 a size to grade it (do not count the base). 4 X 30 = 120.00 + 3 X 15.00 = 45.00 total = $165.00 for making the pattern and grading it. If I were digitizing an existing pattern, I would charge $5.00 a piece to digitize the pattern and $15.00 to grade it . 4 X 5.00 = 20.00 + 3 X 15.00 = 45.00 total $65.00.
We also provide Marking, Plotting and Sample Making services as well.
[comments: uses Gerber Accumark. ] The contact information of this service was deleted because he got a lot of negative feedback and an unsatisfactory BBB rating. I left the information for his quote in the interests of providing corroboration of fee schedules among providers.
In response to your email I find it very hard to understand the pricing of grading for $960! I have been in the apparel business for 50 yrs making patterns, grading, making markers and consulting for companies such as Charming Shoppes. Limited Stores David’s Bridal, Eagle Eye, Cozy Toes, Mullberribush, and many other leading manufacturers of the day that are no longer in business. I’ve also made my own as a manufacturer of sportswear.
I provide pattern making, grading, and marker making services
Charges for a 6 pc shirt Frt(2) Bk(1) Slvs(2) Facing(2) Collar(2) is $10.00 per size. 4 Sizes $40.00 plus Nest $10.00.
[comments: Gerber Accumark; complete price list on his website. His info also deleted for negative feedback from visitors]
The services I quoted in yesterday’s post:
Stephen Singer Pattern Co
Computerized marker and grading; highest quality photocopies, email patterns and markers worldwide and pattern making referrals
260 West 36th Street
NY NY 10018
Pattern Works Inc
Services include pattern design (StyleCAD), grading, making markers and detailed technical packages. A truly exemplary service, you can find out more about them here.
Pattern Works Inc
1117 Baker Street, Suite A
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
Tel (714) 884-3678
Fax (714) 884-3681
And last but not least, my own company:
Apparel Technical Services
The Sewing Factory School
410 Old Coors Dr. SW
Albuquerque NM 87121
Patterns for men, women, children and sewn products with an emphasis on more complex products such as suits, coats, leather and other lined garments and products. Services include pattern design (StyleCAD), grading, marker making, digitizing, sample making and small lot production. Also available are pattern transfer to hard copy (oak tag), training in my factory or yours and of course, consultation.