Six years ago I presented a pattern challenge. A concept sketch of it appears at right. This is from Hillhouse & Mansfield’s book Dress Pattern Design. I did a whole series of posts (5, links at close) but it didn’t get much traction because people couldn’t find suggested materials, it was too complex for my audience at the time or who knows. The site was much less trafficked in those days.
It’s a style I’ve always loved and for more than obvious reasons. I suspect people think the pattern design execution is tricky but I don’t think it really is. Sure, it would be more difficult by draping but the schematic (below) shows the cut lines working from a basic bodice block that wouldn’t be so difficult.
What intrigues me about this design is the potential for a clean neckline finish -specifically the facing’s design. That I do think is a bit more complex than the design execution itself. The sewing would also be challenging, sewing to marked points (dots)… but that’s giving away too much of it. Any time I’ve seen a flange insertion into the neckline, it’s been tacked on top of the facing as a separate piece. It doesn’t look very clean or neat; it reminds me of the workaround you see on the underside of the top collar of some high dollar suits. Like they couldn’t get it to match or lay flat by machine so they rolled it over the undercollar and hand tacked it into place.
I don’t know if anyone is interested in the challenge of designing a clean finish facing with flange but I risk the suggestion on the off chance someone is up for it.