Wasting time Researching on Facebook the other day, I found an illustration of a dress I love. Not that I’d wear it, perish the thought, the things I like are the things I’d like to make. That’s my narrow and self serving idea of a good design.
This is a real challenge, I’d like for us to think of it in terms of construction so forgive this side jaunt into cutting the pattern.
See that peak of the skirt rising into the midriff, attached with two buttons? [Don’t let those buttons spook you, those aren’t functional but decorative.] Were I to cut this, I’d likely add more shaping -this silhouette being slender- with bust darts feeding from a closer fitting midriff to the bust, partially concealed on one side by the revers overlap. Darts would be more obvious on the underlap side but I think this is readily forgiven. Maybe a series of short tucking? There seems to be a bit of blousing in the sketch so who is to know the truth of it?
I’m not wild on bishop sleeves but I love the peaked shaped cuff.
Okay, onto what I consider to be the critical but understated element of this look -have you examined the CF hem closely? There’s a pleat there. How would you draft and stabilize the pleat?
I’m aware there’s myriad ways to draft a long pleat. You can partially stitch it closed, releasing midway between knee and hip but it doesn’t resolve the head of the pleat. Should it be halfway up or start at the waist? Have you ever drafted a frock coat? This is a common issue with those.
Having done this in all of the wrong ways and in a few good ways, I obviously have an opinion on the staying of this pleat. What is particularly dreadful is when a long pleat -even partially closed- splays inordinately. What say you? How would you tackle this problem? Let’s compound the difficulty by saying the dress is unlined. Obviously, I’m trying to point you toward a given solution. Humor me but I’m interested in your suggestionss. Have fun.