Pattern puzzle: Tasha Stogaya

tasha_strogaya_smI don’t remember how I discovered Russian designer Tasha Strogaya but she does some interesting pieces. I’m intrigued by Russian designers, particularly their use of style lines. Illustrated at right is an example of Tasha’s work featuring the style line seams (buy it here). A slightly larger version of this illustration is here.

I’m not wild on the fit of this style. Oh that’s not right. What I mean to say is that these style lines are placed in such a way that darts are not necessary to draw it in for a closer fitting silhouette -which is what I think this style should be -but then I’m not the designer. Maybe I’m drawn to it because these are the sort of style lines I like; namely, those that eliminate the need of darts in their entirety. It’s no trick to take a flat shapeless garment sans fitting darts and break it up into sections to sew back together. All said and done, this style is likely designed for a different figure type than this mannequin represents. I still think it’s a nice piece.

I’ve been saving this one unpublished because I couldn’t figure out how it’d become a pattern puzzle but I think I have a tack. This one is a tiered level challenge, beginning, intermediate and advanced. You can do one or even all three if you like. Please provide a link to your rendering in comments.

Beginner challenge: Draw out the pattern pieces as represented.

Intermediate challenge: Starting with a basic fitting shell, draw out these pieces closing any darts etc to arrive at the finished result.

Advanced challenge: Starting with the pattern pieces broken into style lines, show where and what you’d do to change this pattern to fit it more closely to the mannequin. Note: you can’t introduce shirring or any darting if it does not exist in the original piece.

Happy posting!

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6 comments

  1. Cheryl says:

    Hi, I LOVE your site. No time to do your challenge at the moment. That is a GOOD thing :)

    My first impression of the fit of the garment…Keep it loose BUT add two back darts through the midriff/waist area for alittle shaping?

    I love LOOSE-FITTING styles but the FEMALE body is a WONDERFUL thing. A dart here and there works WONDERS :)

  2. Alesia says:

    This actually reminds me of some of the vintage French designs (circa 1930’s) that actually do break apart a dress/skirt into sections and use the seaming to “replace” the need for darts in some places. This is interesting to me, because creating darts is definitely an acquired art…

  3. Tracy says:

    Well, I look at it, and it is so bunched and bitsy (sp?). I wouldn’t touch it. It makes no sense-design wise or pattern wise. Maybe i am just an …………..

    Much like my sentence structure.

  4. Well, I can happily say that I very well could try all three parts of the challenge, now that I’ve taken almost a year of Flat Pattern classes, but I do have a question about part 3:
    To get a closer fit through the torso, wouldn’t you just shave off the appropriate amount from the sides? That wouldn’t affect the way the pieces interact with each other to create shaping. Am I right?
    As for some bust shaping, that can be done in the seam which crosses over the bust point. Taking those two pieces, I would curve both of those edges away from each other, to create a rounder shape.

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