Pattern Puzzle: Style #22005 pt.2

ee_v2At long last -having been interminably delayed- comes the solution to last week’s pattern puzzle. The upper bodice of which you can see at right.  As I’d mentioned in comments, I didn’t know how the neckline was going to present itself but this is what I came up with. With a cascade -as Ann correctly deduced- there are a wide variety of options. You play with the folds and fullness until you find something palatable and congruent with the style. Before I get ahead of myself, here is a list of image files which provide more detail on how the style was put together:

Left side seam
Close up of gusset at left side
Full size front view
Front bodice, straight on
Three quarter view of front bodice cascade (from left)
Three quarter view of front bodice cascade (from right)
Right side seam
Three quarter view of right side seam (from rear)
Right side seam, skirt folds & gusset
Back bodice
Full back view
Larger view of left side seam
Another angled view of front
And still another view of the front

As I was discussing design continuity, in the photo below you’ll see the linear lines of the neckline cascade are compatible with the tucks falling at the side seam. To be certain, I could have placed softer draped folds at the side seam but at the time, it struck me as just a bit too matchy-matchy.


Several visitors mentioned that this design wasn’t hard to figure out. I’m glad but chagrined. I can never tell what people will think is easy or hard. Several attempted to construct the style out of paper but I think Alison is the only one who sent me photos. She did pretty well, not so easily done in paper.

Now, as far as the wear-ability of something like this… I suppose you could pull it off if you were rail thin or had no hips to speak of. It would be flattering to one’s derriere though, with its pencil skirt type silhouette. Ideal fabrications could be knit (of course) but also something crisp. If it were to be cut in a tight woven, I think the skirt would need to be redone with deeper folds and a bit more ease so that the tucks weren’t needing to be adjusted. I suppose one could use a tape as a stay along the side seams but that idea strikes me as a band-aid.

I also think the bodice portion could be a blouse so maybe I’ll work on a variation of such next. I just don’t know what sort of sleeve to stick in there -I do think it needs a sleeve. It is also possible that I think it needs a sleeve because I want to show off with a sleeve that requires mad pattern skills. Seriously though, most sleeves are terribly boring.

The sewing was much simpler than one might suppose and it went together fast. This took me about half an hour to sew plus a few minutes of pressing. It took me considerably longer to arrange the back drop, take decent photos and write this entry than it did to sew it.

I’ve never done a pattern puzzle for you all before. Should I do more of them or continue to glean from external sources?

As to this style, have you any questions? Any comments?


  1. Theresa Riess says:

    Kathleen, the bodice with the pleated fan effect is absolutely dreamy. It is quite similar to a lot of the detailed day dresses from the 30’s and early 40s.

    Theresa in TucsonReport

  2. Kathleen says:

    I’m thinking I would like the chevron tucks better in a sleeve or even as a design detail on a blouse front or back, than I like them along the skirt side seam.

    T: style details from the 30’s-50’s are my favorite.Report

  3. LinB says:

    A tulip sleeve? A flutter sleeve (oval with a hole in it for arm, I’m thinking, rather than anything too frou-frou)? At first glance, I saw the mannequin arms as plain, short sleeves, which is pleasing.Report

  4. Marita says:

    I love that neckline detail, it’s absolutely gorgeous. Love these puzzles, keep them comin’ :) I missed this one due to the lack of time, did print out and cut the pieces and had a vision but that’s as far as I got. I ‘d make it a sheath with long, kind of skinny sleeves that had that same kind of detail as the neckline only going downwards. Love those sides too, lovely!!! Can’t wait for the next one. Thank you.Report

  5. Susan says:

    Love the top detail and the flounce! You are correct about the skirt…unless you are rail thin the pleats aren’t pleasing but still a wonderful concept. I would do a simple sleeve because otherwise you take away from the wonderfulness of the flounce.Report

  6. Paul V says:

    How difficult would it be to have the openings in the side tucks face down? Whenever I see this type of tuck or pleating I think “crumb catcher”.
    Maybe an above-the-elbow kimono sleeve would work (sleeve cut in one piece with the front and back respectively)?
    It definitely has a late 40s to mid-fifties look to it, which is not a bad thing at all. I think it would nice on a lady with some curves.Report

  7. Laura Lam says:

    Interesting! I couldn’t figure it out….dummy me! As you mentioned, this would flatter a thing figure. Would you be able to redesign one similar to fit a curvy figure? I’m dealing with many curvy middle aged customers, who wants drapes but also want to look ‘thin’. Thanks. Love your blog. I always look forward to reading your blog.Report

  8. Sandra Stroud says:

    I am sorry I missed the first post, I have been busy sewing curtains all week (blech!). That flounce detail at the neckline is really lovely, and I agree with other comments to keep the rest of the dress simple to let the flounce be the dominant feature. Perhaps a magyar sleeve with a gusset for movement could work? I love how the curved seam on the bodice echoes the curve of the flounce.Could you continue this curve seam idea onto the skirt instead of the pleats? Personally I would love to make this up in a pale grey or pink lightweight wool. Of course then I would need an occasion to wear it!Report

  9. Demetra says:

    Beautiful pattern!!! The neckline is gorgeous. I got the skirt, but I love doing puzzles. Look forward to more in the future.Report

  10. Leigh says:

    I really like the idea of the side skirt detail translated to a detail on the sleeves, though no sleeves at all would be great too. I don’t suppose you would consider selling the patternas a download as opposed to making the garment?Report

  11. s r says:

    yeah i think its an amzng thing t knw tht puzzels cn also b included in fashon design its hats off to u ill definitely try this i had a hrd time solving it but smhw i was able to put sm parts right tnx for the version n pls bring sm moreReport

  12. Kathleen says:

    m s gld u fnd t hlpfl mb u cn crt n 2 nd pst sgschn fr vrbd ls whn u hv mr tm t wrt dcnt rspns thnx fr stpg b hp u cn fd gd jb n fshn dsgn nd tht u rtng dsnt hld u bk t mb prblm bcz cmncshn s mprtnt t hrd t cmnct s t s n th thr hnd t gd u nt wstg ny vwls r pncttn r cptlzng ltrs thrReport

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