Finally, a follow up to the pivot sleeve pattern puzzle entry from four years ago. Here’s a quote for context:
Last June, I wrote an entry about the clothing worn by George Mallory on his fated attempt to reach the summit of Mount Everest. From studies done in the UK, it was found that his apparel was 20%-40% lighter in weight than modern day gear but was warmer and more comfortable. Of particular interest to researchers was a pivot sleeve built into the Burberry jacket Mallory wore.
Today’s follow up is inspired by an article Anne Stoye sent me published in Threads magazine. The author describes the pivot sleeve he found on a Norfolk jacket as a “cut on gusset”, an apt description. [But on the other hand, I’m steeling myself for the legions of people who hereafter, will call any jacket with a pivot sleeve, a Norfolk jacket.] A Norfolk jacket was a gentleman’s shooting jacket, sport coat-like with box pleats at center back or two off to either side of each shoulder.
I think the article is very good and easily adaptable with a bit of diligence. Okay, scratch that. I didn’t read it because I can’t draft from words, I draft from pictures but one would be hard pressed to improve upon the provided illustrations. I don’t think you need to follow the instructions line by line anyway. All you need is an understanding of the concept to incorporate it into a draft and the illustrations provide a clear idea of that. The only thing I would change is the doop-tey doop on the front armhole. I don’t like those. In my opinion, those are too subtle for even precision construction. Better to smooth the line and mark the point with a notch.
You can put a pivot sleeve into any garment with a two piece suit sleeve. I’m partial to a peaked gusset because I like the look but the rounded pivot shown here could be easier to sew. Truly, the peaked gusset amounts to showing off considering I’ve always said rounded gussets are easier to sew. However it is you shape it, the bottom of the gusset isn’t visible with the sleeve at arm side.
Photo courtesy: Threads