Nameless #5 (back vent)

I decided to continue the nameless tutorial series (the inside facing, lining and shell juncture on the inside of suits) as it applies to the back vent of sport coats and suits because many people remained confused regarding the specific application. Anyway, now we’ll cover just the back vent exclusively. When I’m through, you’ll see it is sewn with the same method, order and process as the lining and facing were. If you happen to have missed the previous tutorials in this series, just plug “nameless tutorial” in the search box or hit the link to tutorials from the navigation bar. Before I forget, there is also a topic area for tutorials in the discussion forum so use it if you have any questions.

Tomorrow I’ll get into the construction of the vent. In this tutorial, we’ll be using one of the core skills of sewing, namely dot-to-dot sewing. In the meantime, you can cut yours out. As ever, you’ll need some pattern pieces for this tutorial and luckily for you, I’ve drafted some up. You will need a total of four pieces. These are:

1 Left Back Shell (323 kb)
1 Right Back Shell (352 kb)
1 Left Back Lining (291 kb)
1 Right Back Lining (303 kb)

A couple of notes regarding cutting:

-Clip into the fabric where notches are indicated.
-All pieces are cut “face up”. This means the face of the fabric should be face up and the pattern piece should be face up when you cut it.
-Regarding drill holes. Most of you don’t have a paper drill that you need to mark these. Too bad, this tool is my absolute most favorite and useful tool. You can get one here. You can see a photo of one in my post on pattern making tools and supplies (the screw punch is the second tool from the left). I don’t like those hand held standard office type hole punchers because the holes are too big; you need a very fine marked point. Also, the throat of those limit how far you can cut into the paper. The screw punch marks anywhere. In the mean time, cut out those drill holes (on the pattern only) as best you can so you can mark those points with a chalk or wax pencil.
-Remember that all lines -always- are cut away. Cut them off!

A note regarding production pattern making conventions:
Please note that the directionals L and R are circled. This is a standard convention used in marking patterns. If you also have patterns that are not 2-pers, they should be marked in a similar fashion. If your pattern is a one-way like these, you should never write on the wrong side of them. The only thing you’re allowed to write on the back-side of a one way pattern is “wrong side” and a big X. Some companies are so picky about this (justifiably in my opinion) that they use green-back oak tag pattern paper. The wrong side is the green side. This prevents patterns from being mislaid in the marker making process. You might think this isn’t a big deal but these kinds of conventions are built-in safeguards that prevent huge wastes of money. This is the kind of mistake that if you make it, you’ll only make it once. And that’s assuming your company survives the mis-cut…

Related:
Name this tutorial
Nameless tutorial #2
Nameless tutorial #3
Nameless tutorial #4
Nameless #5 (back vent)
Nameless #6 -Troubleshooting
Nameless Tutorial #7
Nameless Tutorial #8
Nameless Tutorial #9

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5 comments

  1. Natasha says:

    Do you still circle drill holes on the backside of a directional pattern piece.

    Incidently some joanns sell screwhole punches almost exactly the same as the one I picked up from the pattern supply place but in the scrapbooking section. Its overpriced but then again they probably expect you to use a coupon which would make it about right. I think they come with like 3 different sized bits

  2. kathleen says:

    No, don’t circle drills on the reverse side. Don’t give anyone any reason to have need of the reverse side at all. Well, I’ve made notes on the backside in pencil. But all pencil markings on pattern pieces are ignored. Or rather, they’re supposed to be. Pencil is reserved for pattern maker’s (and pattern grader’s) use only, often including notes to the grader or grade rules. Everybody else can read those notes but they’re to be disregarded. If something is immportant enough for all concerned to know about, it must be in ink and on the top-side. Pencil is rather like private notes to self.

  3. lori says:

    Is the drill hole used to start your dart from? You go 1″ down from your apex and fold the dart at the drill hole? I’m not sure where i should fold my dart from….

  4. kathleen says:

    hmm. how to explain…drill holes are marking devices of which marking dart ends is ONE use. In this discussion, we were talking about marking pivots for sewing the vent, not darts. You’re asking about drafting conventions for darts and honestly, I wouldn’t even know where to start with that except to say that’s an entirely different topic and it really depends if you’re talking about industrial or homesewing. I couldn’t begin to tell you about homesewing because I don’t understand the many contradictions so if I can’t make it make sense for me, I’m unlikely to be able to do it for you. If it’s industrial, then I’d recommend my book which has all of those conventions spelled out. Sorry I can’t help otherwise.

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