Note: At close we have a sponsored give away; a free pair of jeans from Tummy Tuck Jeans.
I have been sitting on this post for a couple of months mostly because I don’t know what to call it and I don’t have any (easy or fast) answers. Specifically, what’s up with the fit of jeans these days? I am beyond annoyed. I thought it was just me but then I got this email from Sue:
I am a consumer who found your site while I was looking for links to pants patterns and manufacturing. I have been noticing the trends in the patterns for most commercially retailed women’s pant. The recent troubling trend is the lack of buttocks room at all, even in higher rise pants. It just seems the a$$ just keeps getting flatter in all pants. It may be a way to save costs on labor (less curves and uneven measurements ) and material. But even the expensive brands are going in this direction. What the heck is happening and who do I holler too?! I am so frustrated I could scream.
Specifically, jeans are round-mounds lately. I’m calling it the mono-butt. There’s no nice way to say this but -we have cheeks back there, what happened to the bifurcation? A buttless, mound back there is annoying. What happened to “shape and lift”? This isn’t flattering. We want cheeks!
When I’ve brought this up with some people, they’ve said it’s because women are wearing their jeans too tight. Right. Today’s kids are the only ones who’ve ever worn their jeans too tight. Like we never did. Or don’t. It’s not that the jeans are too small (although they’re snug, all right?), it’s the cut. There’s supposed to be a CURVE back there. Redbook did an article on The Best Jeans For Your Butt and every single pair had a mono butt. Below are some views. While these are snug, I wouldn’t say they’re too tight -but I would say these have mono-mounds.
I have this idea that the cut of jeans has become increasingly worse because everybody’s copying each other. People launching a denim line grab a pair of the best selling brand in the market and copy it line for line, errors and all. Who knows how the original market leader got butt-less but I’m not the only one to think it’s from using off shore product development (review: Push manufacturing; subverting the fit feedback loop). Eric thinks it’s something else. He thinks that a given brand made a drafting error, the style became popular, and it became a look all its own. He thinks people are deliberately making them that way now either because they think it looks good or that it’s so ubiquitous people don’t know they’re supposed to look any other way. Well, I don’t know which came first, the chicken or the egg. All I know is that if you want cheek room in pants these days, you either have to buy them used, make your own or hunt and peck for the few remaining brands that aren’t buttless. By the way, one such brand is Rockies which you may have never heard of. Rockies are cowgirl pants. Below is a pair of Rockies on the left. I don’t know where the pants on the right came from. The latter photo came courtesy of google image search and I’m kicking myself for not saving the originating url. Rockies are available in western wear and many feed stores.
Of course I would love to open the floor to a discussion of this fitting problem but we might have to move it over to the forum so people can upload sketches of their drafts and proposed solutions. I know I have a hum-dinger I’m looking forward to posting from a vintage German pattern drafting book.
Okay, in keeping with today’s theme of jeans fitting, I coincidentally got an offer from the Tummy Tuck Jeans PR person to sponsor a jeans giveaway. All we need now is a contest. So our contest is, selecting from the silhouettes on this page, which pants pattern is most likely to render the worst fit? I will randomly select a winner from all correct responses. Upon selection, you will have to provide your size, name, address and contact information for the product to be shipped to you. Deadline is next Monday.
PS. If you have any recommendations for companies still making decent jeans, sing out. This company looks promising except they don’t show any on a model. Problematically, they claim “We invented Diamond Gusset jeans in 1987”. Good grief. I’ve been putting gussets in pants at least ten years prior. Perhaps needless to say, I’ve been inspired to play with pants drafts lately…
Related: Jeans and pants fitting tutorials
Jeans fit so lousy these days
Jeans fit so lousy these days pt. 2
Yet another pet peeve: Waistbands
Anatomy of a Camel Toe pt.1
Anatomy of a Camel Toe pt.2
How to fix a camel toe
Adding a gusset to pants pt.1
Adding a gusset to pants pt.2