How to fix a camel toe

I suppose I should open with a lecture to do what I say and not as I do but I think I’ll pass. Rather, the lesson for today boys and girls is to never consider your fitting sample ready for fitting analysis until you’ve finished sewing it. Sounds obvious huh? Consider me spanked. By the way, the alternative title for this post is Pattern String Codes part 4 so this comes on the tail of parts two and three.

Anyway, being in a hurry as I was and happy to report the pant block was pretty good (I still say it wasn’t bad for my figure type), I hadn’t actually finished the waist off with the elastic waistband and this proved to be my undoing. Once I finished the band and put them on, darn it all, there was that little booger in my crotch. I suppose I can take solace in the fact that I’d said it was there when I first looked at the pattern, well before I ever cut it out. ~sigh~ on to the matter at hand.

As I mentioned in Anatomy of a Camel Toe part two, the CT is usually formed because the center front of the pant has too much fabric in it (I’d suggest you revisit that post before this one). I’ll start by walking you through this. Below is a photo of the pant crotch. The front is to the left (in case you don’t sew and don’t know what you’re looking at).

To correct the CT, you have to scoop out the front. Below I’ve marked off about half an inch, tapering it to nothing where it hits the deepest portion of the crotch curve.

Below you can see the effect once the excess is trimmed away. Already the crotch curve is looking nicer.

If you find that you don’t have enough fabric to go around after having trimmed out the front, you’ll need to add that at the side seam, correct? But you already knew that because you went back to read Anatomy pt. 2, didn’t you? Of course you did.

Now, at the same time that the front is trimmed away, the front waistline -particularly at CF – must be lowered because the CF line is too long. By the way, that is exactly how I missed the CT; I fit it the first time without the waistband and elastic. I had it tied into place and as we’ve all seen, that was definitely an inappropriate solution. If the waistband had been formed, I would have seen the too long front line with the pool of CT in the bottom of the crotch. To correct the waist line, I’ve marked off another half inch, tapering it to nothing at the side seam.

Thus corrected, below is a finished view of the pants crotch shaping. Please note that the height of the pant at the front is considerably lower now than the height of the pant at center back. This is a good thing. Previously, there hadn’t been much difference between the two (front and back).

As a point of comparison regarding front to back waist height of the drafts, I pulled a pattern I had gotten (a plot, not a hard copy) from a friend of mine way back when. This is a jeans pattern; the back pant is on the left now. The front piece has a cut out at the side seam because that’s where the pocket goes (in case you wonder why it doesn’t look like the other pants pattern). Also, the back looks different because it’s been pieced with a yoke. This is an example of your basic 5 pocket.

As you can see, the shaping of the crotch curve varies considerably and the height difference of the waists front and back are more extreme. This is to be expected considering the styling differences. The jeans were made to fit “big bootie girls” as the designer called them (she being one herself) cut with full curves to the seat. And in case you ask, yes, I think my friend’s pattern needed better shaping itself in the crotch line -which is why she gave it to me- but she closed her doors before we got around to this particular job. I just showed it here to illustrate height differences of the waist, front to back.

Related: Jeans and pants fitting tutorials
Jeans fit so lousy these days
Jeans fit so lousy these days pt. 2
Yet another pet peeve: Waistbands
Anatomy of a Camel Toe pt.1
Anatomy of a Camel Toe pt.2
How to fix a camel toe
Adding a gusset to pants pt.1
Adding a gusset to pants pt.2

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