A Treatise on Sleeve Drafting

armsyce_primary_range_of_motion_pivotCourtesy of Timo Rissanen who found out about it from Holly McQuillan -those links aren’t gratuitous, you should be keeping an eye on those two- comes word of a a Ph.D dissertation. It is a treatise (I hope) on sleeve drafting written by Morris Campbell, lecturer at Massey University in New Zealand. The full title is The Development of a Hybrid System for Designing and Pattern Making In-Set Sleeves.

At right is but one of many images from the dissertation. I picked it because it illustrates the primary range of motion as I illustrated in my book on page 168 (chapter entitled Fundamentals of Fitting which as far as I know, remain undisclosed in any fitting books today).

I am not suggesting this work is the definitive beginning and end of all things sleeve drafting (although I hope it is) because I have only scanned parts of it. I won’t have time to read it until, oh,  June or July, as you should safely surmise by now considering my posting tardiness of late. Other than looking at the many interesting pictures and the many math equations that I don’t have the understanding to process, I did scan the bibliography.

The bibliography was interesting in two ways. The first is that Campbell has access to better sources on the Pacific Rim than I do -oh envy!- and the second is what can only be termed as omissions. Obviously it is not possible to survey all of the literature which would amount to recreating vast portions of Seligman’s bibliography but some omissions were puzzling. Such as Seligman for source material, Hulme, Simons and of course, Wampen -gotta have Wampen; perhaps there is an explanation for this in the book. Not that I think there is anything wrong with Campbell’s citations of Poole or Morris but my first (albeit cursory) assessment of a non-fiction work remains the bibliography. As should yours be. All that said, we really do want someone to break new ground and treat the subject in wholly new ways; it could be much better to omit a lot of precedent under brush and forge a new path. One thing I like very much about this treatise and gives me much hope is the in depth treatment of drafting in real terms, using cardboard and sheet metal as built examples. I’ve always said that if a pattern is proven, you could cut it in sheet metal and weld it together. In sum, Campbell takes this approach to heart.

sleeve_treatise_match_stripeAt right is another sample to be of interest to those who send me horrid emails or posting nasty comments claiming I’m out of my tree when it comes to matching stripes across a sleeve, here is an image from page 198. I figure you can make a lot or maybe nothing of this. Whether this proves anything (or not) will keep any number of people out of the bars. I do wish to remind people of one simple fact;  just because you can’t do something, doesn’t mean it can’t be done.  Four minute mile anyone? Not by me but I know it’s doable. Or maybe I just have super powers or have a magical pattern table.

Oh I forgot to mention the best part, you can download the dissertation for free! Yay!

Edit 2/19/13: It would seem that some images are missing from the dissertation, specifically illustrations culled from copyrighted source material. Is there a connection? We don’t know at the time of this writing. In the meantime, enjoy and use what you can. Carry on.

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