May 16, 2008
Archives 5/9-5/15 2005-2007
Here's this week's entries from the archives...
May 9 through May 15, 2005
Boy's B-day
Push-Pull Manufacturing
May 9 through May 15, 2006
Producing a catalog
Goverment agencies raid sewing charity
A question of thoracic shaping pt.2
Lazy pattern making
Ungaro style #11350
May 9 through May 15, 2007
Miami Beach day 1A
Notes from Network Tuesdays
Back from SPESA & Material World
Obligatory Mother's Day post
Energy and the future of the apparel industry
SPESA Trip Report: Eric Husman
SPESA Trip Report: Kathleen pt.1
Posted by Kathleen Fasanella at 11:46 AM | Comments (0) | Email to a friend | TrackBack (0)
May 15, 2008
Pattern Puzzle & Quiz: Threads pt.2
I'm out of town today, off to Los Angeles again through Saturday. In the meantime, I'll leave you with the answers to the most recent challenge. I thought the answers provided in comments to the quiz were very interesting and educational!
Robyn mentioned the raised embroidery technique was called passementerie. Wiki says this includes effects like fringe and tassel making. Hmm. The photo of the sample there doesn't convince me but what do I know? There's more on passementerie too.
Els described the effect as made with bias tubing -with which I'd concur. I don't think it's corded though. I think the fill we see is due to seam allowances. For comparison, here's a photo of a bias corded sample from Colette Wolfe's book, The Art of Manipulating Fabric
Continue reading "Pattern Puzzle & Quiz: Threads pt.2"
Posted by Kathleen Fasanella at 6:21 AM | Comments (7) | Email to a friend | TrackBack (0)
May 14, 2008
9,953 and counting...
My blog login settings inform me that we're coming close to the 10,000th comment:
I think this calls for some kind of lame contest with an equally lame prize. Or maybe not lame. I like contests although I never rarely win any. I don't know what to do for a prize. Me for an hour? Perish the thought. heh. Knowing our luck, the 10,000th comment will come in from somebody who never visits, somebody looking for scraps. Do keep posting tho, maybe it'll be you?
I note that the forum still lags the 10,000 mark but with only 1/10th the traffic there (787 members), it's still quite remarkable. Is there another forum on the web that can boast nearly 12 posts per member? It's quite the happening place...
I'll have to do a contest there too, once we get closer to the 10,000 mark.
Posted by Kathleen Fasanella at 3:18 PM | Comments (9) | Email to a friend | TrackBack (0)
When do you cut your losses?
I got this email from Colette Jones who doesn't wish to remain nameless but I did remove the name of her pattern maker. Other than a few suggestions at close, I don't have any (new or novel) answers. Maybe you will.
----------------------
I had made my choice based on a few things. One, she wrote a guest entry on your site [about a show she attended], so I was thinking …“Well she must be pretty good, or she wouldn’t have been able to publish a post on the blog.” The second factor in my decision was talking with you. We had discussed some issues that raised red flags with you, but also how she was really eager to learn and try to improve, so I went forward with my decision to use her because of the third reason ….her prices are low. I don’t have a lot of money to spend on blocks and patterns so I really thought “ya know if I am going to take a chance on someone, I would really rather it be less costly for me.” This is a huge reason why I think certification is going to be great… companies are going to be tried and true.
I was really disappointed with my first sample from her. There was an extra seam in the back of the pants a couple of inches below the waist line.
Continue reading "When do you cut your losses?"
Posted by Kathleen Fasanella at 1:30 PM | Comments (17) | Email to a friend | TrackBack (0)
May 13, 2008
Pattern Puzzle & Quiz: Threads
I intended to post this entry well before now but better late than never. The dress on the left (below) comes from the back cover of a recent edition of Threads Magazine. I don't know which because I didn't buy the issue but my photo is dated April 20th (took the picture at Barnes & Noble). Threads typically has some gorgeous outfits on their back cover. In my opinion, they should publish a coffee table book of their back covers. I don't always buy their magazines and books but I'd be first in line to buy a book like that.
Circa 1940's (I'm guessing based on the detail and slender silhouette of the skirt), I think this is a wool crepe. Wool crepe always drapes so beautifully.
Here's a close up of the design effect (above right). You'll notice the threads are a lighter color than the fabric. I doubt this was an intended design effect. It's more likely to be a case of the thread having faded over time.
Continue reading "Pattern Puzzle & Quiz: Threads"
Posted by Kathleen Fasanella at 11:27 AM | Comments (12) | Email to a friend | TrackBack (0)
2008 Fabbie Award Winners
Remember last January when I mentioned that Fashion-Incubator was nominated for the Fabbies Fashion Blog Awards organized by luminaries such as Fashiontribes, Bag Snob and Manolo’s Shoeblog? Well, F-I won the award for Indie & Niche fashion blog. Yeah! As this was a reader's choice award, I am gratified to have gotten your vote. Here are the winners of this year's Fabbies. Congratulations to all.
Winners of the Fabbies Awards 2008
- Accessories: Knickersblog
- Beauty: Afrobella
- Best Newbie: stylenotes
- Men’s: Dandyism
- e-Zine/New Frontier Publishing: NYMag.com
- Fashion: I Like Her Style
- Indie/Niche: The Fashion Incubator
- Lifestyle: Tied between Apartment Therapy & YBF
- Parents/Pets: Honest Baby
- Shoes: Grand Mademoiselle Shoe blog
- Shopping: FabSugar
- Streetstyle: The Sartorialist
The awards will be presented during New York Fashion Week in September. Speaking of, I wonder if I could justify a jaunt up there. I've never been to an official fashion week event.
Posted by Kathleen Fasanella at 9:29 AM | Comments (24) | Email to a friend | TrackBack (0)
May 12, 2008
Tyranny of tiny sizes pt.2
Shades of Tyranny of tiny sizes, my friend Valerie is a consultant. Old school like me, she writes complaining about changes in the trade with respect to sample sizing. She starts by quoting a line from The Entrepreneur's Guide:
"Everyone makes their samples in a size medium so if you make them in another size, you'll be the only one who does."This was the old school way of doing things. It is still considered the correct way among us old timers to make your first fit samples in a M or 10, and then grade down. This is not the way most high end design houses are doing it these days. Most of the high end design houses are using XS and size 4 fit models. They are using them for first fit and runway.
In many respects -but not without many caveats- she has a point. Before you rush off to follow either advice, there's many things to consider. What's your market? Who is your customer? What are your price points? Are you showing styles in fashion shows? Are your products marketed in showrooms (year round)?
Continue reading "Tyranny of tiny sizes pt.2"
Posted by Kathleen Fasanella at 2:40 PM | Comments (11) | Email to a friend | TrackBack (0)
May 9, 2008
Archives 5/2-5/8/2005-2007
Here's this week's entries from the archives...
May 2 through May 8, 2005
How to get sizing and grading standards
WOATS
May 2 through May 8, 2006
Working as a freelance fashion designer
Why I Love Cotton Incorporated
Made by Magpie
How to issue style numbers pt.129
How to start a clothing line
Sally, Amy and me
May 2 through May 8, 2007
Training sewing machine operators pt 2
Training sewing machine operators pt 3
News from you 5/4/07
Miami Beach day 1
Posted by Kathleen Fasanella at 4:29 PM | Comments (0) | Email to a friend | TrackBack (0)
May 8, 2008
Certification for service providers
Just curious but what do you all think of ranking or certifying the sorts of service providers (freelance designers, technical designers, illustrators, pattern makers, sample makers, sewing contractors etc) that designers are likely to hire? I've long thought somebody should do something. I've seen more abuses than I care to count from people providing services they're not qualified to offer. DEs have lost a lot of money ...and heart! How are consumers to know their service provider meets minimal competency standards established by peers?
I think we need something like this so I've launched a test program on our forum. If you're a member, you can weigh in there or post your comments here (I've included the email that I sent to members last night). Initially I had some trepidation but I've become rather excited and looking forward to reading the criteria by which people think their peers should be evaluated. Of course, I anticipated service providers to be reluctant, worried it'd put them to disadvantage and they haven't disappointed me in expressing their reservations. My point is, the forum is for designers. The forum -while a partnership- is not a barrel constructed to make fishing for customers more convenient and easy. Without designers, we don't eat; the forum should be arranged to put their needs first. I think we (service providers) lack integrity if we fail to inconvenience ourselves just because we fear the scrutiny of our peers, colleagues and competitors. Put it this way, I much prefer that we police ourselves rather than forcing designers to do it because we will not. They shouldn't have to do that. If we have any integrity in our craft and self respect, we'll set minimal standards of competency for ourselves.
Continue reading "Certification for service providers"
Posted by Kathleen Fasanella at 5:06 PM | Comments (4) | Email to a friend | TrackBack (0)
May 7, 2008
Starting a home sewing pattern company
This is a bit off topic but when has that ever stopped me? Seriously, I don't know of any resources on the web that provide both comprehensive and legitimate information. I've gotten several questions on this, here's the latest:
Kathleen, maybe I'm off my rocker for wanting to do this but I am interested in starting a small independent pattern company. My search for someone to develop the patterns for the home sewer has come up empty. I find lots of information for people and companies like yourself.
I don't think you're off your rocker, this a great business option. While not without its challenges, there's still room in the market depending on your product quality, USP, styling, demography and marketing.
The point of not being able to find "someone to develop the patterns for the home sewer" is probably the one thing that gets me going. There's no reason you can't use industry services too. Having reviewed the range of products from more independent home sewing companies than I can count, quality can be a problem and among those who provide services to them, fees are exorbitant. Most "home drafters" don't know accepted standards of practice and will think they're entitled to royalties. I don't see why you have to find and hire a "home drafter". I have to give you points though, most people who start these companies feel they must be their own pattern maker and that's silly. If you started a restaurant, would you be the only cook? You'd never sleep. The writer continues:
Continue reading "Starting a home sewing pattern company"
Posted by Kathleen Fasanella at 4:35 PM | Comments (19) | Email to a friend | TrackBack (0)
May 6, 2008
The Skorpions are coming
Comes word that you can meet the artists who created the Skorpion entry in today's Computational Couture post. FAR (Future Arts Research) at Arizona State University (Tempe) is sponsoring the event at The Icehouse on May 13 at 7:00 PM. Wine will be served.
The press release says to contact Sarah Munter at 602.258.1852 with any questions but she has yet to return my call from last Friday. Ba-dump-bump. If I were closer, I'd go. More info is below the fold.
Continue reading "The Skorpions are coming"
Posted by Kathleen Fasanella at 4:11 PM | Comments (2) | Email to a friend | TrackBack (0)
Art Thread
In the second of today's art fiber entries, Barbara sends a link to an exhibition of Devorah Sperber's work at the Brooklyn Museum. It runs through June 17th so it's not too late to see it.
Her site (while not without with some arty goobley-gook that careens around like an out of control pin ball in my brain) is pretty cool. Unlike a lot of artist's sites, the background is clean and sparse; it's not competing for attention detracting from its purpose. The site also includes a pod cast so you can listen while perusing the images. Pretty neat!
Her ...tapestries?...are comprised of varying colors of thread spools (sponsored in part by Coats & Clark, natch) suspended to form pixilated copies of well known artists paintings. Below is an example of the Mona Lisa.
If you go to the site, you've already seen what I did "wrong" to this picture. Heh. Being an art-retard, I fail to understand why she had to do everything upside down. Yeah, I know all about the eye/brain transposition thing having learned it in the fourth grade but was it really necessary? I thought the core concept was cool enough to stand on its own. Regardless, do go see and tell me all about it. She has some quite large ones too, including The Last Supper.
Posted by Kathleen Fasanella at 12:40 PM | Comments (3) | Email to a friend | TrackBack (0)
Computational Couture 2008
In the first of three entries on fiber fashion and related art, Patty had sent me the catalog from Seamless: Computational Couture 2008, an exhibition held last January at -appropriately enough- the Boston Museum of Science. Being somewhat dense, I've never been able to grok art but there's enough apparel mixed with science to appease my not-so-inner geek. I've scanned the catalog (13 facing pages) and created a pdf (1490 kb) if you want to follow along on some of the items that caught my eye. In order given:
Apparel was the first, a project by Jenny Chowdhury. My copy of the catalog was wet in that corner so I don't know what it looks like. Jenny is a bit of a prankster with a BS (Tufts) and MS (NYU) in electrical engineering, she's no intellectual or creative slouch. I feel a sense of disappointment; perhaps she's set my expectations high based on her previous projects. Her jacket uses radio waves to illuminate stripes according to Wi-Fi signal strength. That said, it could be useful when traveling and you're looking for an open connection.
The Charming Burka was interesting. It allows a woman wearing one to transmit a preselected image of herself to someone nearby on their cell phone. Apparently, this doesn't violate the laws in the Koran. Designed by Markus Lison using Bluebot technology. Hmm, I could imagine a whole range of garments doing the same. Best not to give naughty teens any ideas.
Markus also designed a Vanity Ring. With an electronic display and web connected docking device, it displays the number of Google hits one's name generates. In case you wonder, Markus majored in Physics. Heh.
Continue reading "Computational Couture 2008"
Posted by Kathleen Fasanella at 11:33 AM | Comments (2) | Email to a friend | TrackBack (0)
May 5, 2008
What is Private Label Branded Apparel?
A question posed from another non-apparel specific list:
We are seeking active wear apparel for [redacted] sports made from [redacted] fabrics. We are looking to private label and need a variety but minimums to create the lines. Can anyone provide assistance or any leads.
The meaning of private label has become diluted or rather expanded. Thinking a bit, I think I've narrowed it down according to who is signing the check for the order. There are three kinds of private label.
- Corporations and Organizations
- Retailers -internal product development
- Retailers: external product development
Lastly, I'll explain why one needn't be a major player to provide private label goods. There's no reason a DE can't get in on it too. Even small stores like the idea. If you've been delivering consistently -and they've been paying consistently- this can work out well for both of you.
Continue reading "What is Private Label Branded Apparel?"
Posted by Kathleen Fasanella at 3:09 PM | Comments (7) | Email to a friend | TrackBack (0)
May 2, 2008
Archives 4/25-5/1/2005-2007
Here's this week's entries from the archives...
April 25 through May 1, 2005
Process Review: MT Install
Non-disclosure agreements
NPR pledge week
April 25 through May 1, 2006
Chinese bras and sizing
Look what I bought
Nothings, news and links 1
How to hire a fashion illustrator
Intruder (a favorite)
Silence lends consent
Quality quiz
April 25 through May 1, 2007
Evaluating the Pattern Grading Process pt.2
Jeans Sizing, Problems and Recommendations
What does Fashion-Incubator mean to you?
News from you 4/27/07
Apparel manufacturing in California
Training sewing machine operators pt 1
Posted by Kathleen Fasanella at 5:32 PM | Comments (0) | Email to a friend | TrackBack (0)
Naming a product line pt.69
And no, there aren't 68 entries preceding this, only one. More evidence of my silliness when I've decided to elevate a perseveration into a sometime series. From the brevity of this entry, you won't believe I spent most of the morning writing this piece. Well, this and a few other rants forever relegated to the dustbin of my personal archives.
From here in the forum:
I am planning on doing something a little different than I've done in the past with my next line. I figured I should make this transition now while I still can. I'm going to go under my name instead of a label. I found while I was at the show in NY this past weekend that my label that I've had for 6 years now doesn't correctly represent my new lines. If I go under my name I don't feel backed into a corner to always have to use vintage fabrics. I still plan on using all eco friendly fabrics though.
To which I responded,
Oh, I think that is an excellent idea. You've grown, time to move on. Besides, "recycle xxx designs" doesn't say "vintage" to me anyway. I think it's a good idea in another way too. Right now, eco stuff is all the rage. Everybody's putting eco this and green that in their label names. I know that ten years from now, those label names will be very dated. Not that the impetus toward sustainability will be less (who knows) but it'll just look dumb. Look at it this way, assuming everyone's on the bandwagon then and sustainability is de rigeur, it'll be too obvious. Like saying you have a food restaurant. What other kind of restaurant would you have? Better to impart your sustainability values to a name that isn't trendy, one with longevity.
Continue reading "Naming a product line pt.69"
Posted by Kathleen Fasanella at 4:00 PM | Comments (5) | Email to a friend | TrackBack (0)
May 1, 2008
Pop Quiz #472 pt.2
Returning to pop quiz 472 referring to button stand size, I was pleased with the offered comments. I don't remember now why I thought to even pose the question; I just remember being horribly embarrassed when the 1" rule I was taught was ridiculed at my first place of employment.
Based on some of the responses, I'm thinking I should have first explained the definition of button "stand" because I think many people confuse button stand as meaning the same thing as placket width (such as that seen on men's dress shirts). The reason they are not the same thing is because not every button closure has a placket but all button closures -even non-functional ones- have a stand. Technically, the stand lies from the line to be joined (often CF or CB) to the finished edge. On a man's dress shirt, the stand line runs halfway (vertically) through the placket width. The stand does not refer to the total space occupied by the button -which a placket will plus an allowance. The width of button stand does not include the half of the button that lies on the opposing side of that dividing line to the finished edge.
Continue reading "Pop Quiz #472 pt.2"
Posted by Kathleen Fasanella at 1:50 PM | Comments (3) | Email to a friend | TrackBack (0)
April 30, 2008
Apparel Manufacturing in New Jersey
You need a license to manufacture sewn products in three US states; NY, CA and NJ. I wrote about New York and California (twice) before but finding the information for licensing in NJ has been a real pickle. None of my search terms turned up anything. However, I thought to search my desktop just certain I'd come across it before and sure enough, I found a pdf of the license application. From the title of the document, I was finally able to find the information on the state of NJ website.
Penalties:
Other than the obvious -"Contracting for the performance of an apparel industry service with a manufacturer or contractor who is known to have failed to register or renew its registration, or whose registration has been revoked"- constitutes a violation. In other words, you are required to check whether someone has a license and that they are in good standing. Similarly (as I've said ad nauseum) you are legally a manufacturer even if you don't own a single sewing machine. If you're looking for a "manufacturer" to produce your products, that means you're looking for a competitor and why would you do that?
In assessing penalties, the NJ law goes one step further than NY and CA. The latter two states will confiscate finished goods from those deemed to be in violation of the law. NJ will confiscate "any partially or completely assembled articles of apparel and any equipment used in the assembly of apparel from any manufacturer or contractor. Ouch! Bye bye sewing machines.
Continue reading "Apparel Manufacturing in New Jersey"
Posted by Kathleen Fasanella at 11:24 AM | Comments (3) | Email to a friend | TrackBack (0)
April 29, 2008
Mostly about sustainable architecture
Last weekend, Eric and I went to T or C (Truth or Consequences NM) to meet up with Sally at a fiddling contest. That's not a joke in case you wonder, I'm a big blue grass fan. We stayed at a fabulous bed and breakfast about 45 miles from T or C in a tiny town called Kingston, just outside of a slightly larger tiny town called Hillsboro. I tell you, Hillsboro has come a long way (previous entry). I remember that even ten years ago, you could go to the local (teeny tiny) grocery and find recipes for spotted owl stew posted on the bulletin board. It's become more progressive since then. Before I get too far off track -as I most assuredly will this entry being about sustainable building- the least of the weekend was the fiddling contest. Below is the highlight of that event. An adorable little cowboy named Lane. You can't see him from behind but he's still so little as to be wearing diapers. Quite shy he was; his belt and boots are matching ostrich.
Abject cuteness dispensed with, we stayed at a B&B called the Black Range Lodge, originally constructed in 1880 when it housed cavalry and miners. Owned by Catherine Wanek and Pete Fust, they're a story unto themselves. As it happens, Catherine is an expert in straw bale construction and wrote a beautiful book called The New Straw Bale Home. Dang, now I see I could have gotten it for $11 less at Amazon but hey, you have to support authors. Besides, I got my copy signed. The book is gorgeous, coffee table style with detailed information on costs, processes etc. Of course their property is a testament to ongoing sustainability which I'll show you next. They are very thrifty. I liked that none of the towels matched. They feed you an awesome breakfast too, complete with entertainment from Pete who does all of the cooking. He is a card. He says his cooking is so good, he's gotten five marriage proposals. Two of them from women. Below are their pictures.
Continue reading "Mostly about sustainable architecture"
Posted by Kathleen Fasanella at 3:40 PM | Comments (12) | Email to a friend | TrackBack (0)
April 28, 2008
Marker questions and costs
[amended] Various questions from various people on markers:
I have a question regarding markers. I apologize if this seems like a silly question. Are they re-usable? In other words, once a pattern is made and graded and the marker has been made and paid for should I be paying for a marker again when a second production run is done?
First of all, a marker is a tracing of all the pattern pieces needed to cut out a given style. A given marker is not reusable. The fabric is laid out, the marker laid over it and the cutter uses the lines to cut out the pieces. The marker is cut up as the fabric is. Below is a photo (courtesy) of a marker being cut.
These days though, the definition of a marker is blurring. Most markers are made by computer and saved as a file. In this context, a marker is reusable provided none of the details (number to cut, sizes, fabric width etc) have changed. It would be a mere matter of hitting "print" to generate a new marker.
Continue reading "Marker questions and costs"
Posted by Kathleen Fasanella at 3:42 PM | Comments (5) | Email to a friend | TrackBack (0)
Jeans fit lousy these days 2
We have a winner for the Tummy Tuck jeans, based on the question from the first entry . The winner is Misty (aka Christy T), randomly selected from the 28 contest entries which designated the McCalls pattern #6985 as the worst fitting of all.
Tangentially, I'd mentioned a delightfully intriguing draft from a vintage German pattern drafting book I have. A scan of the crotch curves is here (in the forum). I plan to test it very soon. I think it will be very flattering, particularly for the bottom-endowed. I've never seen this in any other drafting book.
Posted by Kathleen Fasanella at 3:40 PM | Comments (8) | Email to a friend | TrackBack (0)
